Do-it-yourself gate with a wicket. Step-by-step instructions for making your own gates. Preparatory work for the installation of gates

When homeowners are constructing fencing around their properties or in the process of constructing garages, the need to solve the problem of building a gate always arises. First of all, it is necessary to accurately determine the appropriate type of gate. In this matter, an important role is played by the calculation of the smallest nuances, since situations often arise when, after installing the gate, you have to do additional work to arrange your site. It is for this reason that the design features of various types of gates should be studied before purchasing materials.

• Recoil;
• Swing;
• Lift-and-swivel.

Each such design has its own specific differences, so it is necessary to study them separately.

DIY swing gates

Construction stages:

1. Installation of hanging racks.
2. Making the gate itself.

The sequence, of course, can always change.

The following materials can be used as racks:

• Profile pipe with a certain cross-section;
• Reinforced concrete pillars;
• Masonry made of brick or natural stone. In most cases, stone is used for cladding purposes;
• Ordinary wooden beam.

Let's consider the existing methods of installing poles:

• Metal pipes are buried in the ground to a depth of approximately 1.5 m. This technique will always differ from others in terms of financial benefits and time savings. There is also always the possibility of emergency replacement of the rack. To avoid misalignment, it is recommended to strictly maintain the same level when burying pillars;
• Equipment of a kind of concrete foundation as a base for pillars.

More attention should be paid to the second installation method.

Sequencing

• Using an earth drill, a pit is dug, the minimum depth of which should be 1 m;
• A special cushion for concrete made of sand and crushed stone with a thickness of 150-200 mm is equipped. Such a platform is necessary so that the rack never deepens;
• The pillar is installed and gradually leveled using a regular building level;
• The stand is poured with concrete.

To assemble the gate, you need to determine the size of the upcoming structure. To simplify the work, it is recommended to create a drawing in which all dimensions will be indicated.

After this, you can begin manufacturing parts for the frame according to pre-made drawings. When performing welding work, you should always remember safety precautions. It is advisable to entrust this matter to a qualified specialist. You should always remember that the number of stiffeners largely determines the resistance of future gates to external weather conditions. If pipes are used as racks, it is advisable to prevent water from entering them.

Gates can also be decorated with products made by cold forging. After the gate is assembled, you can put it on the hinges.

Let's list the main advantages of swing gates

• Economical;
• Relative ease of installation;
• All stages of installation can be performed on your own without much difficulty;
• To make such a structure, different materials can be used.

Disadvantages of swing gates

In general, installing swing gates is not difficult.

DIY sliding gates

Sliding gates are a little more difficult to install. When equipping such a structure, brick pillars are placed on both sides, on which rollers are fixed, holding brackets and fixing elements at a certain height.

The main weight should always be supported by the channel, which is fixed to a securely installed foundation on the inside of the gate or to iron supports.

You can install a solid foundation or several strong pillars under the channel. For the foundation, you will have to equip a pit, at the bottom of which there will be a cushion of crushed stone and sand. After this, formwork with waterproofing is placed in the pit. A reinforcing grid is installed in the formwork, after which concrete is poured into the pit.

A channel with reinforcement is mounted on a concrete foundation. This element is strongly pressed into the solution until it is completely immersed. When the concrete hardens completely, you will get a fairly strong iron platform. Only after the concrete has hardened and the channel has been installed are the gates themselves installed.

For the frame, you can use a square pipe or an ordinary iron corner. Additional stiffening ribs are necessarily welded to the square frame to increase the stability of the created structure. Each weld seam must be cleaned of the resulting slag. The frame is primed and then covered with a special paint that can protect against corrosion. Only after this can corrugated sheeting be installed on the frame.

When all the constituent elements of the structure are prepared, and the foundation with the built-in cantilever channel becomes strong enough, you can begin attaching the components of the sliding system.

Installation of a sliding system

Cantilever beams are mounted at different heights. When developing such structures, sizing must be done with particular accuracy, since the console can be deformed even with the smallest errors.

The disadvantages of sliding gates include only 2 features

1. Compared to swing gates, sliding gates are a little more expensive.
2. To be able to roll back, you will need a little space along the fence.

We list the main advantages of such gates

More information on installing sliding gates can be found in this video:

Installation of overhead gates

First of all, it is necessary to design the lifting and turning system. To do this, you need to change the dimensions of the opening and draw up a suitable sketch yourself or find a suitable drawing. After purchasing all the components and tools, you can begin installation, which consists of the following steps:

After the assembly is completed, finishing and painting work can be carried out. There should be a special groove for the seal at the bottom of the profile.

Advantages

The disadvantages of lift-and-turn systems include

More information about installing lift and slide systems can be found by looking at this
video:

To ensure the safety of a residential premises or industrial facility, it is customary these days to install fences and gates. Today, modern homeowners use three main gate assembly technologies. The essence of technology lies in the way it is discovered. Collecting any variety with your own hands will not be difficult for anyone.

In modern conditions, gates are not only a security element that partially reduces the likelihood of theft or damage to a car, as well as unauthorized entry into the site or garage, but also part of the overall interior of the garage, house or site. In this article we will talk about different types of gates, features of their installation and operation, advantages and disadvantages, and also tell you how to install them yourself.

What types of gates are there?

Despite the fact that most types of gates are universal, that is, they can be used for a house, garage or fence, there are gates that are only suitable for one thing. Therefore, we will list the main types of gates and also indicate what they are best suited for.

1. Swing.
2. Recoil.
3. Folding.
4. Retractable.
5. Sectional.

• Swing gates

This is the most common and universal type of gate, which has not changed its design for thousands of years and consists of two vertical supports, several canopies (hinges) and two leaves. Depending on the material of the valves, they can be divided into:

• solid;
• with gaps;
• wooden;
• metal:
• from sheet metal;
• forged.

The main advantages of swing gates are ease of installation and maintenance, the main disadvantage is sensitivity to the amount of snow cover and dependence on the free space in front of them. If the snow has risen above the lower edge of the gate or there is any obstacle in front of it (a car, a pile of garbage, a FS unit), then opening it will be problematic; other types of gates do not have this drawback.

• Sliding gates - drawing

The second most popular gate, which can be installed only where there is enough free space on the side, that is, 1.5–2 times the width of the gate opening. Because of this, they are installed only in fences and garages located in the basement or lower floor of a residential building. Despite the fact that there are sliding gates made partly from wood, they are not widely used, so almost all sliding gates are made of metal. At the same time, gates made of sheet, pipe and rod are in equal demand. The main advantage of these gates is that they do not require free space in front of them, but they require maintenance much more often than swing gates due to the more difficult operation of the rollers and carriages that ensure the movement of the gate.

• Folding gate

This type of gate has become widespread in various enterprises because it does not have the main disadvantages of other types of gates and is located in a protected area. Due to the fact that the lower guide is closed by the gate, even during heavy snowfall it does not become clogged with snow, so there are no problems with opening the gate. Therefore, these gates have only two drawbacks - the high cost of the installation kit and installation, as well as a weak security effect, because they perform only a decorative and logistical function. However, if executed correctly, these gates will look very nice on the garage under the house. However, these gates are not widely used in residential buildings.

• Retractable gate

Retractable or up-and-over gates are very popular in garages located inside protected areas. The gates do not depend on the level of snow and are relatively inexpensive, but they take up a lot of space under the ceiling, where they are removed when the garage is opened. Due to the fact that the gate is made in the form of one huge leaf, which completely covers the gate opening, their opening looks very beautiful - the gate rises, unfolds and goes somewhere inside the garage. In addition, such gates require regular professional maintenance, so they are installed only by those who can carry out all routine and repair work themselves or have sufficient finances to enter into a service agreement with a serious company.

• Sectional doors

Sectional, or roller, gates are the best choice for a garage located inside a protected area. They do not depend on the amount of snow cover, do not require a large space under the ceiling (with the exception of large-section doors), and are easy to maintain. Thanks to the use of modern materials, they provide good insulation of the garage without any additional measures, because the insulation is located inside the metal (less often plastic) frame from which the sections are made. Such gates are in great demand, but it is difficult to install them yourself due to their complex design and high requirements for accuracy and adjustment.

What gates can you make yourself?

If you are an experienced builder, have access to the necessary equipment, components and assistants with the necessary skills, you can make any of the gates described above yourself. If you are an ordinary person whose talents and abilities lie in other areas and have minimal construction, plumbing and welding skills, then you can only create swing and sliding gates. We recommend making swing gates - despite serious shortcomings, they are easy to install, look beautiful, and finding materials for them is not difficult. Below we will describe the main stages of creating and installing swing and sliding gates; this will help you better understand the process, evaluate your strengths and create beautiful and functional gates yourself.

How to create and install swing gates

To create a gate with dimensions of 2.2x2.2 meters you will need:

• steel profile (square) with a cross section of 30 mm, 20–30 meters;
• steel profile (square) with a section of 100x100 mm or steel pipe with a diameter of 100–120 mm, 6–7 meters (two sections of 3–3.5 meters each);
• garage hinges 4–6 pieces;
• door hinges 2 pieces;
• door lock;
• corrugated sheeting 6–7 square meters;
• steel reinforcement with a diameter of 10–14 mm 3–6 meters;
• manual or mechanized drill with a diameter of 300–400 mm;
• manual tamper (you can use a log of suitable length and thickness), to which handles are attached for ease of use;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• drill with a set of different drills;
• self-tapping screws;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• sharp core;
• square;
• plumb and level;
• sand, crushed stone, cement and water;
• shovels;
• several assistants.

Creating sashes

When creating the sashes, you must determine in advance how they will be attached to the supports; their width depends on this. If from the inside, then the width will be equal to the width of the passage, if from the front (outside), then it will be equal to the width of the opening + double the width or diameter of the supports. It is also necessary to determine in advance whether you will cut a gate into one of the doors, because the location of the frame elements depends on this. After this, it is necessary to determine the number of vertical posts of the frame - in regions with weak winds on gates of this width, it is optimal to install 3 vertical posts on each leaf. If the winds blow strongly and often, then it is necessary to install 4 racks.

Mark the vertical and horizontal elements along the length and cut them using a grinder, then weld them from their frame. Be sure to use a square when marking, and also use it to check the shapes of the gates during welding, this will avoid skewing the gates and altering them. When the sashes are made, hang them on supports. Keep in mind that the strength of the gate will depend on the quality of the welds with which you connect the hinges to the supports and leaves. Some craftsmen who have to install gates in mountainous areas first mount the supports, and then make the doors for them and hang them. This approach allows you to adjust the gap between the gate leaves.

If you decide to make a gate with a wicket, then take into account the size and shape of the canopies, because the wicket should open and close freely, but there should not be large gaps between it and the frame of the door. You can hang the gate and install the lock both before and after hanging the gate.

Installation of supports

Using a drill, drill a hole for the supports. If there is no drill, you can dig it out with a shovel, but the diameter of the hole will be several times larger, which means you will have to either fill the support with stones or pour much more concrete. The depth of the holes for the supports should be 30 cm greater than their depth. This is necessary to create a sand-crushed stone cushion that will protect the gate from groundwater. This pillow must be thoroughly compacted with a tamper or log.

If it rains heavily in the fall in your region, and in winter the temperature drops below 15 degrees below zero, then the depth of the hole for the supports should be greater than the depth of soil freezing.

In addition, the hole must be made with a diameter of at least 40 cm and insulated at the level of freezing depth with polystyrene foam. You can also install (if free space allows) screw piles, which will act as supports. When installing supports, pay special attention to the distance between them and their verticality; for this, use a tape measure and a level or plumb line. Check with a level or plumb line from 2–3 sides. Having placed the supports, fix them and fill them with concrete. The gate can be hung after 20–25 days.

Hanging and plating

There are two technologies for hanging and covering gate leaves of this size - the first involves first lining, then hanging, the second, on the contrary, first hanging, then covering. The first technology is used when you can attract a sufficient number of assistants and lifting the doors is not difficult; the second is used if you are working together or even alone. Hanging the gate is done in the same way as ordinary doors or windows - the sash is raised, the canopy pin on the support and the hinge hole on the sash are aligned at the top and bottom, then lowered. This operation can be performed alone, but only on sashes without trim. At least 2 people (preferably 3) are required to hang cased sashes.

Cut the corrugated sheeting to the nearest millimeter, maintaining right angles, otherwise the entire structure will look clumsy and awkward. For fastening, use metal self-tapping screws; keep in mind that self-tapping screws are not bolts, so tightening too tightly will only lead to stripping of the thread.

Installation of latches and locks

There is no single standard for locks or latches for swing gates. Some limit themselves to a chain and padlock, others install a mortise lock or deadbolt, and still others install automatics. Therefore, experiment based on the materials available to you.

The main task of any gate is to ensure the entry of motor vehicles beyond the fenced area, into an industrial or commercial building. Such structures are installed in suburban areas, in country houses and in garages. And, as a rule, they are made to order. However, knowing the features of these products and how to make swing gates with your own hands, you can do without outside help and save on the enclosing structures of your site.

Advantages and disadvantages of the chosen option

Swing gates, which are two doors hung on hinges, are considered one of the most popular options in the field of private construction. The reasons for their choice include:

• simple design, which reduces the risk of gate failure and increases its service life;
• relatively low cost, especially for do-it-yourself structures;
• no height restrictions (except for garage doors). A car with oversized vertical cargo can pass through the swing gates;
• a large number of shapes and design solutions that are practically not found in other types of gates;
• no need for concreting the site;
• the ability to automate their opening, ensuring the use of the gate even without leaving the car.

Among the disadvantages of this option is the need for a large space to use the gate. In addition, the structure is almost impossible to insulate. And when constructing a gate, you should also take into account the wind load in the area. However, all these disadvantages are easily compensated for. Moreover, the swing structure still has more advantages.

Types of structures

Before starting work on the manufacture of gates, you should decide on the features of their design. You should choose a specific option based on the characteristics of operation and frequency of use. The width of the passage that such gates enclose also matters. In total, three types of structures are used:

1. With one leaf;
2. Bivalve;
3. With two doors and a gate (mortise or located separately).

Single-leaf structures, consisting of one continuous leaf, are used less frequently than others. First of all, due to the need to install a more powerful support and metal frame. And more space is required to open them with the same width.

The most popular double-leaf gates are simpler to manufacture and easy to install yourself. The structure consists of two panels of the same size, covered with sheet metal. The space needed to open it is half that of a single-leaf gate. And the pillars do not require additional reinforcement.

A design intended for constant use not only by vehicles, but also by people - a gate with two leaves and a wicket. They are made according to the same principle as conventional double-leaf structures, but the difference is the presence of additional support. Although, if the gate is installed in a garage or in the opening of a production workshop, the gate is built into one of the leaves and does not require the installation of a third post.

You should know: Not all gates are made with solid leaves made of metal sheets. Some may be made from wrought iron or other features that provide visibility through the gate. This option is more decorative than protective.

Basic materials

One of the main classifications of gates is their division according to the material of manufacture:

1. Gates made of metal sheets are suitable for fencing any area and are most often installed in garages;
2. Solid wooden doors are more suitable for fencing around the site. To make their doors, dense, heavy wood is used - oak, spruce or pine;
3. Polycarbonate or corrugated sheets are ideal for automatic gates, as their weight is lower than other options.

Often used for the manufacture of structures and combined options - wooden with metal elements or metal with forged parts. One of the most cost-effective options is corrugated sheet metal, which is characterized by its light weight, variety of colors and durability. And sheets of such coating are produced in sizes convenient for use, allowing to reduce cutting volumes and reduce gate manufacturing time.

Features of design and installation

Before you make a swing gate with your own hands according to the drawing, you should understand the design diagram, which should indicate:

1. Dimensions of sashes and pillars;
2. Placement of transverse parts on the swinging part of the gate;
3. Location of locking elements.

The standard gate design consists of a rectangular frame made of a metal profile (round, that is, a pipe, or rectangular). The cross-sectional diameter of the profiles is from 2.5 to 4.5 cm. The sashes are made of metal and strengthened transversely (or diagonally) using a cross with a diameter of 2–4 cm. The number of such elements required to increase the rigidity of the structure depends on the height and width gate

Hanging canvases

The supports on which the metal doors are hung are also most often made from metal pipes of larger diameter (up to 10 cm). Sometimes a channel or I-beam can be used as a rack. Metal loops are attached to the supports, the dimensions of which also depend on the parameters and weight of the canvases, and the number is usually two on each side.

The diagram according to which the gates are assembled may provide for hanging the leaves not on metal, but on brick or concrete supports (with or without reinforcement). This increases the cost of work, but makes the structure stronger. Especially if so-called embedded metal parts are placed in the brickwork.

When designing, it should be taken into account that the minimum recommended width of any gate should be 300 cm. If it is not possible to construct such a structure, it is allowed to reduce it to no more than 280 cm. This will ensure the passage of any vehicle, even freight transport, through the gate. And the recommended height from the bottom of the sash to the ground is taken to be 80–100 mm.

The height of the structures may differ noticeably from each other. This parameter largely depends on the installation location:

• for a garage or production workshop, the height must be no less than the maximum vertical dimensions of vehicles passing through the gate (including railway vehicles, if we are talking about an enterprise);
• for an ordinary passenger car, 2 meters is enough.

A hinged locking mechanism will ensure reliable fastening of the sashes when closed. It looks like the letter “G” and serves as a stopper when opening. In the place where the locking mechanism enters the ground, it is recommended to dig a hollow metal pipe 1 cm thicker in thickness - its presence increases the reliability of protection, although it complicates the automation of the opening or closing processes. The rack stopper should fit 40–100 mm inside this structure. Horizontal locks can be installed in the middle, top or bottom of the structure. To ensure reliability of their fastening, the parts are mounted on one of the crossbars.

Installation of automation

Almost any swing gate design can be additionally equipped with automation for more convenient opening and closing. On the materials market you can find several standard solutions for electrical drives, which include a control unit, a signal lamp, an electromagnetic lock and a receiving antenna. As a rule, the devices operate from a regular single-phase power supply and can be designed in the same way as automatic swing gates themselves, which are more difficult and more expensive to make with your own hands than regular ones.

Automation is used both for systems with external opening of the valves, and for options with internal ones. And the control unit is placed immediately next to the pole, providing a special place for it. If this was not the case, and the wall is brick, a niche is hollowed out in the brick to install the equipment. The main thing in this case is to install wiring of a suitable cross-sectional diameter, providing a place for its installation.

After installing a device that ensures automated operation of the structure, the number of its swing advantages increases noticeably. Now they can be controlled even at a fairly large distance. For example, from home – the range of the remote control for automatic opening and closing can reach 30 meters.

In this video I will show you how to convert regular gates into automatic swing gates with your own hands. I've had the idea of ​​replacing the gate with an automatic one for a long time. And at some point a scheme was born that I put into practice. The gate is controlled by a remote control from the alarm system. This light serves as an indication that the drives are turned on and off.

I opened the gate inwards. All electrical is housed in a sealed box and the wiring is underground. The electric motors of the drives are powered by a voltage of 12 volts. I have tested the opening speed so far only in winter, and it ranges from 40 seconds to 1 minute. Each of the two drives is made according to the same design. The movable drive rod is attached to a special lug on the gate. The drive itself is attached via a welded bracket to the pole. All wiring is made in a sealed corrugation.

As you can see, I protected the internal parts of the drive with a suitable plastic box and a gray sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 millimeters. This solution completely protects the electric motor and limit switches from moisture.

Features of work

I have different buttons on the remote control for closing and opening the gate, and this is very convenient when I need to open or close the gate. Another point that I wanted to implement: when closing, the gate is blocked due to the original design. Neither on the ground nor above the gate are there any jumpers or stops that fix the gate in its extreme position. The gate simply closes and then remains in a slightly wedged state. This design does not provide for the order of closing the left or right wing; a gap of several millimeters is left between the gates. This approach, it seems to me, simplifies the gate control circuit. When the gate is closed, the drives are automatically switched off.

I manufactured and installed my gate drives in the winter. And this is a good test for the reliability and durability of the device. Therefore, I used proven automotive components and parts. It so happened that this winter I calmly operated my automatic gates at this temperature.

What changes in the cold? The automation works flawlessly, only the gate opening/closing time increases. I think it has to do with lubrication. In cold weather it becomes thicker. The next question that you are probably interested in is: what to do when there is no electricity? I simply pull out the pin that secures the drive rod to the gate, and then simply open the gate with my hands and lower the stops down.

I am not a fan of using a battery as a backup power supply, as I consider this scheme to be expensive and require constant maintenance and charging. In addition, the frequency of power outages in your area is an individual issue. Over several months of operation, I opened the gate only once. To close the gate without electricity, you need to perform the opposite operations: move the axes of the drive rod and the gate, and insert the pin. That's all, and it seems to me that it is not difficult.

The design of the gate has its own peculiarity. To reduce windage, the lower part is made in the form of a mesh.

How to lock gates without using drives? There is a rotating bolt for this purpose. So it is open, and so it is closed.

When the automation is connected, the bolt is always in the open position. I show you the frame of the gate itself. This is the simplest design possible. In my opinion, there are no unnecessary parts in it and at the same time the gate is quite rigid.

How do drives block gates? Let's look at this in more detail. The whole trick is in the special installation of the gate hinges. If you look closely, you will see that the hinges are welded in such a way that they prevent the gate from opening outward.

When closing, the vertical pipe of the gate rests against the post and gusts of wind blowing outward will not be able to pull out the drive. And the screw design of the drive will not allow the gate to be pressed inward.

conclusions

In conclusion, let's look at the features of this project:

• the budget for two drives and a control unit was about 5,000 rubles;
• to make the drives, I used jacks and gear motors for windshield wipers from a “penny”;
• I came up with the control unit circuit myself and implemented it using a relay;
• For additional security, I used two levels of gate closing and opening control. These are ordinary limit switches and time relays;
• I used control panels from a budget car alarm system;
• and finally, I have implemented separate buttons for opening and closing the gate, which allows you to open or close the gate. Which in practice turned out to be very useful.

Part 2

This is the second part of the video about do-it-yourself automatic swing gates. In the last issue I reviewed these gates, and today I will tell you in great detail about the electrical circuit.

I would like to warn you right away that this unit is assembled to perform specific tasks on the gate. These are the tasks. This is the ability to open/close gates under wind and snow loads, when the operating time of the drives can be increased. The second is the ability to open the gate, using it as a gate for guests, for example. Third, the drives are completely turned off after opening or closing the gate. It also turns off after a certain time, which you can adjust yourself. Adjustment of the drive shutdown time is provided separately for opening and closing.

If these tasks suit you, then you can safely watch this detailed description diagrams below.

What does the diagram consist of?

The scheme is based on available elements that can be bought in auto stores or ordered cheaply on Ali Express. The basis of the circuit is two pulse relays, which are triggered when a short negative pulse is received from the remote control unit. The automation unit is in front of you. Let's look at the main elements.

The first is the control unit. Regular car alarm. The cheapest Chinese one. I ordered it on Ali Express. It cost about 300 rubles.

The next large elements are two pulse relays. This is what these relays look like. This is their number. This is the rear fog light relay. Used in VAZs and Chevrolet Niva. It is easy to find and sold in stores. Costs about 240 rubles. In my circuit there are two of these relays: the first and the second.

The following elements are a regular five-pin relay. One, two, three, four and one four-pin relay. This relay is necessary to provide an intermittent signal to the lamp so that others can see that the gate is currently opening or closing.

Also in the diagram there are two time relay modules - one and two. They are absolutely the same. These modules ensure that my circuit is turned off using a timer.

Here are all the main elements that are present in my scheme. And now I will try to schematically draw the operating principle of this device. How does this scheme work?

Scheme of work

First we draw all the large blocks. This will be the control unit for the car alarm. We use only two signals from this control unit. Both signals are pulsed and have negative polarity. That is, this is a minus. Our first signal will be responsible for opening the gate, and the second will be responsible for closing the gate. Naturally, on the alarm remote control it will be these two buttons. The closed lock button is what we use to close the gate. And an open lock is the opening of a gate.

Go ahead. The most important thing in my circuit is the two pulse relays that I talked about earlier. Here they are. Therefore, we place them in the center. First and second. This will be P1 - opening, and this will be P2 - closing. As I already said, we use this impulse relay with this number. They are easy to find in automotive stores and are quite inexpensive. The relay data connection diagram is very simple. I'll show you schematically what it looks like. There are only 6 contacts. Contacts I use. I apply a constant plus to the first contact, and a constant minus to the third contact. The fifth contact is the control one, the minus should come to it. Moreover, this minus can be impulsive. This is exactly what we need. We have a pulse signal with negative polarity coming from the control unit.

Therefore we will do the following. We connect the control unit to the first opening relay. This is our discovery. This is where the control minus comes from the control unit. And the second relay is controlled by a second signal from the control unit. This is our closure and this is also a minus.

Further, according to this diagram for connecting a pulse relay, I use the fourth contact - this is a constant plus at the output. The moment when a pulse of negative polarity arrives at the fifth contact. So here on the fourth pin there will be a signal. This will be a plus. I'll draw it like this.

Electric motors in the circuit

Go ahead. In our diagram, of course, there are electric motors for gate drives, there are two of them. I'll refer to them as M1 and M2. In the simplest version, for this circuit to work, we only need to apply a minus signal from the power supply to these motors. Do this and take any plus from any of these relays. Now how can this scheme work? Very simple. Let's say I need to open the gate - I press the first opening button. On the control unit, a pulse of negative polarity appears on the first contact, and it starts this relay (the first). This relay is triggered and a constant plus appears at the fourth output of the relay. This plus goes to each of the electric motors. And we already got the minus by connecting through the power supply. Thus, they begin to rotate in one direction. The circuit starts to work, both engines spin - our gate opens.

In order to stop this scheme, I press the same button again - the gate open button. What's happening? Again, a control pulse signal of negative polarity appears in the control unit. So it comes here and again it goes to the pulse relay. Since the relay is pulsed, each pulse changes the state of the relay. Thus, if it was turned on, then it turns off, and this plus from the fourth contact disappears. And both engines stop because the plus for both engines disappears.

If we connect the plus from the second relay, which is responsible for closing, then we will use the closing button. Here it is - a lock, we press it, and the signal that goes along this wire is triggered in the control unit. That is, here we have a pulse minus coming through this wire to the second relay, which is responsible for closing. A positive appears on the fourth contact of this relay. We have this plus connected to both motors and now they begin to rotate again, but they rotate in the same direction.

In order to stop closing, we must press the same button again. Then the control minus from the control unit goes through this wire again to the closing relay. The pulse relay changes its state, and the plus of the fourth contact goes away, and again the engines stop.

In order to make the gate drive motors rotate in the other direction and ensure closing, we need some kind of circuit that will change the polarity. Since each relay produces a positive control signal. To do this, I will use a regular five-pin relay, here I have one and two.

They will work in conjunction and provide a change in polarity on these two contacts. How will it look like? When I apply an opening or closing control signal, one or another pulse relay will be triggered, and here the polarity will change on these two contacts. Let's say it was a plus here, and a minus here, and then it will become a minus here, and a plus here. This way I will reverse the engine.

We draw a diagram of the polarity change. As I already said, these are two five-pin relays. Here it is first, and here it is second. Let's designate the contacts. Here we have contact 88, sometimes it is also called 87A. This is not important. On this side we have 30 power contacts. Then these two contacts are 87. And two contacts for controlling the relay coil.

These are 86 and 85. And here are 86 and 85, respectively. Now how will we connect these contacts? Let's do the following. We set 88 contacts to minus. That is, we have a minus here and a minus here.

We connect the 86 and 85 relay contacts to each other and also turn them to minus. We must apply plus to contacts 87 of both relays. Here we will have a plus, I will label it here. To make it clear, I’ll even draw with a red felt-tip pen. So, we have a plus here. And we have a minus here.

We must connect contact 85 of the first relay to contact 4 of the pulse relay for opening. And we must connect pin 86 of the second polarity change relay to pin 4 of the pulse relay to close. There remain 30 contacts of the polarity change relay. We will connect our electric motor in parallel to these contacts.

Now let's see how this scheme will work. Let's say we don't have impulse relays. I'll close them now. What will happen? In the unconnected state, both polarity reversals will operate according to the following principle. Contact 87 will be normally closed, here and here. Therefore, the plus will be removed from this contact and sent to pin 30. I'm drawing a plus here and I'm also drawing a plus here because 30 and 87 will be shorted here too. So we have plus and plus. As you understand, electric motors will not work with this connection.

What happens if we give them a signal? So, we wanted to open the gate, we press the gate open button, a pulse signal appears in the control unit. About this line, he comes here and opens pulse relay number 1. On the 4th contact of this relay, we have a permanent plus, which comes to the 85th contact of the first polarity change relay and changes the state of the normally closed 87th contact to a normally open one. Thus, contact 888 or 87A, as it is also called, closes. And at pin 30 we get not a plus, but a minus. I'm drawing a minus here. And here we have a plus.

Since the motors are connected in parallel, they begin to rotate in one specific direction. When I press the same “open” button again, an impulse from the control unit arrives at the same first relay, it changes its state and disappears from contact 4 plus. Thus, the signal disappears at contact 85 of the polarity change relay, the coil no longer magnetizes the contact and contact 88 goes into the “normally open” state. And contact 87 is “normally closed”. That is, we get a plus here again. And we have a plus here again and a plus here. Therefore, the electric drive motors stop again.

If I press the “close” button, then the same operation occurs only with the second impulse relay. That is, the signal comes here - this is a pulse minus signal, it goes to the second relay. On this relay we have a plus on pin 4. This plus goes to pin 86 of the polarity change relay, and on this side we will have not a plus, but a minus. Both engines start, but they turn in the other direction. This is how I solved the issue of changing the polarity. Using just two five-pin relays.

An interesting question you might ask is what happens if, when the first opening relay is turned on, that is, when I press the “open gate” button, I immediately press the “close gate” button. Then the following will happen: both relays will be in the “on” state and then the plus will be present both here and here. And these polarity change relays will change their state. Electric drive motors will stop because there will be both negatives on the contacts. But this situation does not suit me, because both impulse relays will be constantly turned on and there will be a plus at their outputs. To prevent this from happening, I use two more relays. In my diagram they are right here at the top.

Interlock relay

I call them Open Interlock Relay and Close Interlock Relay respectively. What are they needed for? They are needed so that when I open the gate and my opening relay is activated, I cannot press the “close” button to turn on the second relay, which is responsible for closing the gate. On the diagram it will look like this. These are again two five-pin relays. The contacts will be located like this. These are 30, 87, 88, 86, 85. I will apply a negative signal to these contacts directly from the power supply. This will be “P opening block”, and this will be “P closing block”. Now both of our pulse relays will be connected to the control unit not directly, but through the corresponding opening and closing blocking relays.

Therefore, I erase this connection. We take the signal that is responsible for opening and apply it to the first relay to pin 87. Accordingly, to connect a pulse relay for opening. We must take the signal from pin 30 of the blocking relay.

And now, through the closing blocking relay, we will connect a signal to close the gate. We connect it to pin 87 again. I'll highlight them in color to make it clear. A negative pulse is removed from contact 30 of the closing blocking relay, and we apply it to the corresponding contact of the closing pulse relay.

How will this scheme work now? When we press the “gate open” button, a pulse signal appears in the control unit and along this line it first goes to the opening blocking relay at pin 87. We have this contact in a state where the relay is not connected - it is always closed, so we remove this impulse from contact 30 and it goes to our pulse relay for opening the gate. And further according to the scheme.

When I need to close the gate, I press another button, a signal appears in this branch. It goes to pin 87 of the closing blocking relay. This relay is not turned on yet. Therefore, from contact 30 we remove the minus, which goes to the second pulse relay, which is responsible for closing the gate.

Now let's do a trick. We will connect the positive signal from the opening pulse relay to pin 86 of the closing blocking relay. What will happen in this case?

So, when we open the gate and our impulse passes through this circuit, through the opening blocking relay, it is not turned on in any way. Contact 87 is closed to 30. Therefore, the opening pulse relay turns on, a plus appears at its output, and the circuit begins to work. But this plus along this branch goes to the closing blocking relay. And here the state of the relay changes. If earlier contact 87 was normally closed, now it opens and contact 30 closes to 88, which is not connected to anything. And even if now, I press the close button, and I will receive a signal from the control unit along this branch, and it will go to pin 87. Then the signal from this contact will not reach 30, because this relay has changed state. And contact 30 is closed to 88.

Therefore, pulse relay number 2, which closes the gate, will not be able to operate. We will make the same tricky connection for the opening blocking relay. We remove the positive signal from the second pulse relay. And we feed it here to contact 86 of the opening blocking relay.

As you may have guessed, the same principle of operation will be here. When I press the gate closing button, the negative signal along this branch passes through the blocking relay and goes to the second closing pulse relay. It is triggered, and the positive signal from pin 4 goes to pin 86 of the opening blocking relay.

The relay changes its state and contact 87 will no longer be connected to 30. 30 switches to 87. And now even if I press the button to open the gate, and I have a signal already in this branch, then it in no way passes further, and does not turns on the gate opening pulse relay. This piece of the circuit allows you to eliminate unnecessary operation of both pulse relays at the same time. I will try to show you what I just talked about in a more visual form.

Here they are impulse relays, here they are, these contacts, 6 contacts. And here they are, the blocking relays. This is how they are connected. In red I have wires that are connected to their corresponding pulse relays.

How does a light bulb work?

Go ahead. Let's consider the question of how we can make this circuit signal when one of these relays is turned on. That is, when our engines are running. For this we have some kind of light bulb. And it should glow for us. I use a turn relay in my circuit. This is a turn signal relay for Lada cars. Powering it is not difficult, the circuit is simple. I'll show you where I get the signals from in order to make this light bulb blink. So, we connect the light bulb directly to the relay. And in addition to the negative input, we must provide a positive signal to the relay. Where will we get it? We'll take it here. We take one of the signals from the first pulse relay. And we take the second signal at this point from the second pulse relay.

If I did this and connected the positive contact directly to the relay and brought these two contacts together, I would close the outputs of the first impulse relay and the second impulse relay, then I would be violating the circuit. They would not work correctly. Therefore, for this purpose it is necessary to use two ordinary diodes and place them like this. The first diode and the second diode.

It turned out a little clumsily, but I think you will understand the principle. Now what will happen? When we have the first or second relay open, then from their corresponding 4 contacts the plus will flow here. This plus passes through the diode, but it cannot get to the other branch due to the fact that there is another diode here. Accordingly, this plus goes further and comes to the turn relay and the light begins to blink.

If I press the gate open button and the first open relay is activated, then the positive is removed from pin 4 here. It also follows this circuit here, passes through the diode, but cannot get into this branch. And it goes below here to the turn signal relay and the light flashes again. Accordingly, when I press the close or open buttons a second time, these relays stop working. The positive signal from 4 contacts no longer comes here and the turn relay stops powering the light bulb, and the light bulb no longer blinks. The relay that makes the light blink is located here. This is a four-pin relay. I even took it with a block. It's quite inexpensive. But through these two contacts, I connect the light bulb already in place directly next to the gate.

Time relay

What do we have left? We have one last interesting task left. We need to ensure that after a certain time, each of these relays turns off. In order not to press the same button several times. For this purpose I will use two time relay modules. These are simple modules, they cost about 135 rubles each and are located here.

So here I have the time relay modules located. And their designation is FC-32. I also ordered them on Ali Express. Let this be time relay 1, and this will be time relay 2. Accordingly, our first time relay will be responsible for turning off the gate after opening. And the second relay will be responsible for turning off the drives after closing. In the diagram they look like this, in this place. First and second relays. There are contact groups here. There are two contacts here and two contacts here. And here, respectively, are three, and here are three.

I also want to draw your attention to the fact that the modules themselves have these variable resistors, which are responsible for point-by-point time adjustment. And the corresponding jumpers, which are installed in a certain way, are responsible for the time switching ranges. By setting them in the desired mode, I ensure that each of these relays operates exactly after a certain period of time. Well, in this case, I have the maximum set here to 1 minute here, and 1 minute here. That is, the time after which power will no longer be supplied to the drives in any case is equal to one minute. This time can be set to any time, both for opening and closing.

How I connected them. Here we have a negative signal coming from the power supply - minus. I'm connecting it. The front contact group has two contacts - plus and minus. Accordingly, here is the first minus and for the second - here.

In addition, the minus must be applied to the second contact group, which is located on the other side. Here we have three contacts. And the second relay also has three contacts. Therefore, we apply a minus to the extreme contact here, and to the extreme contact here.

As you probably already guessed, these modules will be powered from the corresponding pulse relays. Let's diagram this. So, when we turn on the first relay responsible for opening, then this positive signal from contact 4 should also go to the input of the pulse relay responsible for opening. Therefore, we bifurcate it like this and apply this positive signal to the left contact of the front contact group. Accordingly, for the second time relay we take the control signal from here. We take this plus from the relay, which is responsible for closing. Like this.

So here we have a plus, here we also have a plus. The contact groups on this side of the time relay have three groups: first, second and third. The first and second, when power is not supplied to this relay, they are normally closed. It’s the same here, a normal closed state. But when the power is already supplied, when the timer is triggered, the second and third are closed. That is, the situation here is now normally open. And here it’s the same thing – normally open.

What else should we connect? We must connect the second contacts in each time relay to the corresponding relay inputs, which are responsible for blocking. This is 87 contacts. That is, we will now take the second contact of the time relay output and connect it to the 87th contact of the opening blocking relay. And we will connect the second contact of the second time relay to contact 87 of the closing blocking relay. This is how I'll draw it.

How does the circuit work with these two time relays? So, we launch the first mode - press the button and open the gate. The gates are opened and the first impulse relay is triggered. At the 4th output of this relay we have a permanent plus. Along this branch, it comes to the time relay, which is again responsible for opening and this relay starts. It starts and counts down the time in one minute.

You can adjust the time to your liking as you like. I experimentally came to the conclusion that the maximum time that I need for the gate to fully open or close, especially in winter, is exactly one minute. In one minute the following will happen. Normally closed contacts 1 and 2 in the first relay open, and 2 and 3 close. On contact 3 we have a minus. This minus will go according to the diagram and will come to contact 87 of the opening blocking relay. This contact in the free state is closed to pin 30. The signal will go further and the negative signal will arrive at the opening pulse relay, thereby stopping its operation.

At the output, we will again get two pluses and the electric motors will stop. And at the same time, the voltage will be removed from these relays. The same goes for closing. We click on the “close” button. Our signal comes to the closing pulse relay. We remove the plus from the 4th contact of this relay, it goes to the corresponding second time relay and starts the timer. Our timer is again set to 1 minute. After a minute, contacts 1 and 2 open, and contacts 2 and 3 close. Accordingly, this minus goes to this branch, which is connected to contact 87 of the closing blocking relay. Through contact 30, closed with 87, the signal is sent to the pulse relay responsible for closing, and this pulse relay stops working. The plus disappears here again. And the polarity change circuit again has the same sign - two pluses, and again these two electric motors stop working. This is the logic of work provided by my scheme.

I hope you are not too tired of my detailed story.

Part 3

This is the third part of a video about do-it-yourself automatic swing gates. In the previous two parts, I reviewed and discussed in detail the fundamental electrical diagram. In this part you will find the device of drives and limit switches.

To open the gate, the mechanism of an ordinary VAZ jack is used, costing 500 rubles. The movable rod of this jack moves along a long screw when the handle is rotated.

Depending on the direction of rotation, the rod will move up or down. The intensity of movement determines the speed of movement of the rod. Now I will open the lid to show in detail the structure of this jack. As you can see, there is a gear inside. For our purposes, the handle and gears must be removed. To replace the lower gear with a screw, it is advisable to install a bearing of a suitable diameter. And on this side, after the screw, we will install an adapter on the gearbox shaft.

Features of gear motor

To drive the jack screw, I used the most common, simplest and cheapest windshield wiper motor gearbox from VAZ. I only use two wires - plus and minus. When the polarity changes, the gear motor changes direction of rotation.

Here is the axis of this gear motor, which we must attach to the screw.

Its shaft makes about 60 revolutions per minute. You can use other, more expensive gear motors with higher speeds. It is in this plane that these two nodes need to be joined.

For double-leaf swing gates, we will need two identical gear motors at once. I would like to warn you right away that in the domestic automotive industry, gear motors even from the same batch can have different rotation speeds. I have not yet been able to explain this paradox to myself. Please note that on this motor I have already installed two nuts.

They will somewhat strengthen the axis of this gear motor. And through them I will transfer the forces through the adapter to the top of the jack. As a result, we should have a design like this. Now I will explain how it works. I already inserted a profile square pipe with a side of 20 millimeters into the jack; a hole was drilled at the end for connection to the gate leaves. The square pipe itself is connected to the jack screw and, as it rotates, moves inward or outward.

On the other side you see a platform for mounting the gear motor. It is made in the form of a plate with holes. This is where the gear motor is attached using bolts. Its axle with nuts fits exactly into the adapter, which I made from a suitable socket wrench.

When the gear motor is turned on, rotation is transmitted through the adapter to the jack screw. The jack screw rotates and moves the square pipe I inserted outward or inward. Accordingly, this entire structure either lengthens or shortens during operation, which ensures the opening and closing of the valves. And at the same time, this design is quite rigid and strong, which is necessary for working in harsh wind conditions.

I also installed several corners on the drive housing, to which I will attach a decorative cover to protect it from atmospheric precipitation. There is a large hole drilled into the back of the drive for a pin or bolt that will secure the drive to the post.

For this design, it is better to make a small plastic cover to protect it from precipitation. The second drive is made in exactly the same way.

Features of the limit switches

And now I will tell you how the limit switches will work. These limit switches are connected to these two motors. Here you see the alarm.

Please note that here we have a plus and a minus. This minus goes right here and immediately goes to one motor, and to the second motor. That is, from here, he immediately goes at them. The second contact goes here, and goes for the first motor - here are two limit switches (connected via a diode), and for the second motor (also two diodes). They are connected differently and connected through two terminals. And it goes to the second motor, that is, this is one motor, and this one goes to the second motor. That is, they work separately.

Let's take a look now. So, we have everything on, zero voltage. Turn it on and open the gate. Now our engines are working. Our voltage is 12 volts. Now let's look. And so we look after the engines. I close the first contact - the limit switch closes only one motor. Now we look at the bottom one. I close it - it doesn't work. Now we close both - here and here. That's it, they both don't work because I shorted them both. Now I let go here, and then I let go - and they work again.

If I close the other limit switches, then nothing happens. What's here, what's here. Notice that nothing happens. Because they are spinning counterclockwise now. Now I'm stopping the scheme. I have zero here. And now I'm starting to close. They now spin clockwise. And now, in order for me to stop them, I have to close these lower ones. Closed and opened. Same thing below. We close both now - I close here, and I close here, and they both stop working.

I closed them all. Now I open them and they work again. We check the first limit switches. We close - nothing, no effect. Because there are diodes here and these diodes only pass current in one direction. Therefore, this limit switch is only for closing, and this one is only for opening. Here's the diagram.

Current limits

Now let's see how much current this circuit has. Ammeter here. We're turning it all on now. Now the engines are working, everything is blinking. And there are two and a half amps here. This whole circuit is for two and a half amperes.

Now I am stopping one contact. That is, we only have one motor spinning. The current here is 1.2 amperes.

Now I want to show the principle by which the limit switches will work. As you can see, they are installed here, here is the one limit switch, and here is the second limit switch installed.

That is, this plank – it moves. Moves here and will turn off here.

Let's see. So she went and freed this trailer.

He freed himself. Now she is heading in this direction towards this end stop. The motor is still running. Here she is approaching the end point. That's it, the engine is stopped, it doesn't turn over. And even if I press this button now, the motor does not work, does not start. Here I am, there is no effect.

Now let's try to close it. Now it is not working - we are closing it. So he went the other way. That's it, the engine no longer turns, everything has stopped. On this drive, the limit switches are located here, like this.

Here she is walking slowly. The second limit switch is here and here. Everything ends with a special fork. With a sealed fork, we can open it. Here it is completely sealed so that if anything happens, we can remove the drive completely.

This concludes my story about the miraculous transformation of ordinary gates into automatic ones with a budget of 5 thousand rubles.

All rights to the video belong to: DoHow

Owners of garages and private houses have long appreciated the ease of use of the swing type. This is quite natural, especially when you consider that the manufacture of swing gates has been carried out for many years and even centuries. It is not difficult to explain such popularity. Ease of operation and highest reliability are two factors that have always been highly valued. And now cottage owners and summer residents are constantly working to improve their design. That is why it is worth making swing gates with your own hands. If previously these were solid structures made of wood, now they are something new, sometimes even with installed automation and other modern technological innovations.

Types and types of swing gates

Depending on the material, it is customary to distinguish between wooden and metal gates. Structurally, these can be double-leaf or single-leaf gates. Quite often, especially in the construction of gates for hangars, garages and warehouses, a combined type is used - double-leaf gates with a wicket. This allows you to save materials and space for organizing a separate entrance. However, in most cases these will be solid elements, and only sometimes you will find lattice or tubular gates with an entrance directly into them. Another type of gate is a metal swing gate with two leaves, on which artistic decoration or lining with painted corrugated sheets is used. In this case, the halves have a lightweight appearance, and the gate is organized next to them. This option is the most suitable for private homes. hinged ones can last for decades, and they require virtually no repairs, which is how they compare favorably with their wooden counterparts. The design can be additionally equipped with automation, which increases their functionality even more.

Device

You can consider a typical drawing of swing gates made of corrugated sheets. The entire structure is based on a frame made of a square profile or an ordinary pipe with a diameter of 20-40 mm. Each sash can have one or two horizontal veins, which enhance the rigidity of the entire structure. Sometimes other options are used, for example one horizontal and two diagonal. This arrangement allows you to quite clearly maintain the geometry of the gate.

Any owner can make swing gates with his own hands if he has mastered the skills of assembling metal structures. You will need to have the skills to use a welding machine, grinder, drill, measuring instruments and a screwdriver. It is possible that painting work will be required at the end.

Work process

To make swing gates with your own hands, you need to follow certain stages of the work. Each sash will be screwed using self-tapping screws or welded onto the hinges to the posts. A pair is enough for one half. Hinges for swing gates should have a diameter of 20-30 mm. For pillars it is appropriate to use a diameter of 70-76 mm, or a cross-section of 20 x 40 mm. Gate supports can be iron pipes, but the design of the fence will dictate how they are installed. To do this, it is necessary to provide a pair in the brickwork, and then hinged gate posts will be welded to them. For crossbars and diagonals, it is recommended to use a profile of 20 x 40 or 20 x 20 mm.

Gate parameters

Practice shows that the most suitable gate width for private use can be considered 3 meters. If you want to save money, you should not reduce the dimensions by more than 20 cm. In most cases, the height of the gate is two meters, and the rise above the ground is not taken into account. The locking mechanism traditionally consists of an L-shaped pin that serves as a stopper. It is located at the bottom of each sash. At the base of the ground, where the locking point will be, there are holes made of pipes, which are 5-10 mm larger in diameter than the thickness of the stoppers. There are no strict restrictions on the length, but it should not be more than half a meter. An addition to the stoppers can be considered a horizontal shutter located on the line of the crossbars.

The most practical option is swing gates made of corrugated sheets. This material fits quite organically into the overall design, especially if the entire fence is made in this style. The profiled sheet on the gate is usually attached at a distance of 50-70 mm from the base.

Automation

Since we are considering how to make swing gates with our own hands, we need to talk about how to equip them with automation. This is a convenient solution so that you don’t have to open them manually, or for cases when you want to make at least some kind of modernization. For this case, there is an automatic system for swing gates. This system includes two linear actuators, as well as an antenna, an electromagnetic lock and warning lights. Electric swing gates are powered by a traditional household electrical outlet. Even an unusual gate design will not be spoiled by such a set, since all the elements look almost invisible.

Even before the automation for swing gates is installed, it is necessary to provide supporting pillars. It is best if they are made of brick or concrete. Swing gates with an electric drive can be installed in several options, depending on the direction in which the gate opens: outward, inward, or with modifications to the supporting pillars. Installation of automation in each case is carried out in a certain sequence. The swing gate kit can be installed depending on the chosen location. The system control unit can be right or left, and the significant point is the correct selection of the wire cross-section. The drive has one feature regarding installation; it is necessary to provide for the distance from the supporting pole.

Assembly and installation

Do-it-yourself swing gates must be made in stationary conditions on a leveled ground surface. The size of the gate must exactly match the parameters specified in the drawing. All workpieces must be sawed off using a grinder with a tolerance of 1 mm. After this, you need to check the right angles, weld the parts of the future perimeter of the gate halves, and then proceed to the crossbars and diagonals.

Markings for swing frames are made at a distance of 30-40 cm from the edge of the frame, no less, and after that they can already be welded into place. Hinges are either purchased at the store or ordered from a lathe. Next, you can bring up the hanging pole and do all these steps using stick welding. When everything is determined accurately with the dimensions, you can completely weld the loop. You don’t have to use a welding machine, but you will need to screw each canopy through thick sheets of steel all the way through. When the metal is painted, you can start screwing the corrugated sheet with screws and a press washer.

Final Steps

The do-it-yourself swing gates are almost done. They are installed after marking the support pillars, and the center of the main axis of the gate must be respected. The base of the pillar assumes that an iron pipe with a diameter of 100 mm will be mounted into it. It should be dug in at 130-150 mm. This is best done using a drill of the appropriate diameter, leaving approximately 10 cm of concrete around the entire circumference.

When setting the base of a brick pillar, you need to use a level and check the vertical in two planes. There should be a gap of 20 mm between the sashes, which is sometimes covered from the outside with a cover strip, its width is 50 mm. This tolerance is required in cases where the metal expands during heat, which can cause the doors to simply jam. If you decide to make swing gates with your own hands, then they will be no worse than factory ones if you approach the assembly process wisely.

Gate frame trim

These works require that you take corrugated sheets and lay them on top of your previously made frame. Self-tapping screws or rivets are used to secure them. Their fixation must be carried out in places of recesses. For every square meter you need to use 10 screws. Next, you can hang the sashes on the already made hinges.

Advantages of using automation

You will appreciate the positive aspects of using such a system in winter, when you do not need to manually open the gate in contact with cold metal. You will not need to leave the warm interior of your car if you need to open the gate; just press the button on the remote control for it to swing open.

conclusions

Making swing gates from corrugated sheets with your own hands is not so difficult; it is only important to have the necessary knowledge and skills for this. There are quite a lot of design options for such structures, and it is simply impossible to describe them all in one article. Each of them is individual, and therefore the entire process of work can be called creative. Here, each owner has the opportunity to implement their own developments or use existing ones. The use of various decorative elements in the form of wood trim or forging is not prohibited. This will make your gate truly unique and noticeable among many others. After all, during operation it is important not only specifications, but also appearance.