How to install a corrugated fence yourself. How to build a fence from corrugated board at your dacha with your own hands. Stage #3 – install corrugated sheeting on the joists

Even if the neighbors are the whitest and fluffiest, any home owner considers it necessary to protect his private life from prying eyes. This is why fences are erected. How to make a fence yourself, without helpers, is described in detail in our article.

A fence is a fundamental part of any suburban area. After all, it’s true: what happens in the yard is private life, which you don’t always want to put on display for strangers. Moreover, the safety of personal property located on the territory of the site, the contents of its adjacent buildings, is becoming an increasingly urgent task. One way or another, fencing a private house, at least on its front side, is very important and necessary.

A little earlier, the configuration of the fence and the material from which it was built were much more commonplace. Today, manufacturers offer many options that even listing them would take a lot of time. And yet the most popular can be considered corrugated sheeting, or corrugated sheet. The full name of this material is profiled metal sheet. The fact is that the price of a set of building materials for such a fence is very low for almost any home owner, and the construction of such a fence is so simple to recreate that making a fence with your own hands from corrugated sheets is within the capabilities of any average landowner.

The advantages of a fence made of metal corrugated sheets are obvious, because during its construction you can do without hiring people, buying or renting construction equipment. Obviously, this is why many owners consider such structures to be frivolous and unreliable fencing for their homes. This prejudice is completely groundless, because products made from corrugated sheets are of decent quality and therefore very popular among the population.

Installation speed. According to this parameter, there is, perhaps, no other prefabricated structure like this. A person who is not experienced in the construction business does not necessarily need to learn anything special and comprehend all the nuances of the construction business. There is no need to have any special construction tools on the farm. You may just need welding equipment, but if you don’t have it and don’t have the skills to handle it, it is quite possible to install it in another way, using commonplace tools and devices that every owner of a private home has.

The fence is continuous. This is not a simple picket fence. The fence completely hides the property of the yard and everything that happens in it from prying eyes. The parameters of the fence - height, width - are chosen by the owner himself. Of course, the dimensions should not be chosen at random, but should be clearly measured - meaning that the fence should have precise limitations. It should be taken into account that even a very low fence made of corrugated sheets can perfectly protect the territory from prying eyes. And it’s very good that profiled sheets can be ordered in lengths, be it short or long – whatever the footage.

Many, barely looking at a fence made of corrugated sheets, think: what kind of protective function can such a simple tin have? If we look deeper, a fence made of corrugated sheets will have such a sharp, cutting upper edge that it will protect against intruders no worse than barbed wire or a more impressive, permanent fence. Anyone can easily cut their hands when trying to climb over. Many people think that such a fence is easy to dismantle. But if a professional attacker wants to penetrate some territory at any cost, he can dismantle any barrier.

The fence is very durable. Of course, provided that all the nuances of its installation and operation are observed, and also if only high-quality materials from trusted manufacturers were used for its construction. Such a fence usually lasts for several decades.

Aesthetics. Having carefully read about how to make a fence from corrugated sheets with your own hands and enthusiastically set to work, you will already see in the process of work how good and laconic it will look. There is nothing superfluous here, everything is smooth and neat. The color is often matched to the roof of the building - fortunately, there are countless color options here. Such a fence also has a beautiful and neat appearance because the surface of the sheet is covered with special durable protective substances, which tend to preserve the metal in its original form for many years. Thanks to this, the fence does not fade in the sun, does not suffer from precipitation, and requires minimal maintenance.

Ease of care. If the surface of the fence becomes dirty, it can be easily washed with water from a hose after applying a solution of ordinary household detergent to the fence. By the way, many types of corrugated sheets are coated with special polymer coatings that repel dirt. If contamination does occur, then with the first rain the surface cleans itself.

Noise absorption. Speaking about protection from prying eyes, we cannot say about some sound insulation inherent in corrugated sheets as a fence. Of course, this is not soundproofing in the literal sense of the word, but the good density of the material is quite good at protecting you from street noise, and will also prevent passers-by from eavesdropping on the conversations of the owners of the yard. Thus, a fence made of corrugated sheets not only provides fencing in the physical sense, but also protects the owner’s privacy from prying ears.

In order for the choice to be correct, you need to know not only the properties, but also the types of materials for constructing a reliable fence. Let's figure out what corrugated sheeting is.

This is a steel sheet (thickness varies) that has a zinc, aluminum-zinc shell that protects against corrosion. In production, such sheets are rolled through a machine, which gives them a certain profile. The purpose and application of this sample depends on the thickness of the sheet and the shape of the profile.

Corrugated sheeting is divided into several types. When choosing, markings with alphabetic symbols (they indicate the purpose of the product) and numbers (which indicate the dimensional values ​​of the material) are always taken into account. So, let's look at the types of corrugated sheets.

"N". This material is used for load-bearing structures in construction. Such canvases have a pronounced high profile with additional stiffening ribs and longitudinal grooves. It is used as a base for walls and roofs, permanent formwork for monolithic installation, containers are made from this profile. It is clear that such corrugated sheeting for a fence in an ordinary residential building is completely unjustified.

Corrugated sheet "NS"- something between the material for load-bearing structures described above and sheets for mounting walls. The wave profile here is already lower - 35+40 mm, the thickness of the material is also smaller. It is used as wall cladding, and also as a loaded element on buildings of not very large size. Can serve as a roof or be mounted in the form of canopies. This type is also widely used for fencing large areas and for construction. This product is truly durable and versatile. But, accordingly, it is quite expensive to build fences from it for a simple private house. The high strength characteristics of such a product will simply remain unclaimed here.

Profiled sheet "WITH". This is a material intended for wall decoration. The profile height here is small, the sheet thickness is insignificant. The price is affordable. It’s just right for fences: the fences will be reliable, durable, and lightweight. For this purpose, it will be enough to choose a metal with a profile height of no higher than 21 mm.

Profile sheets "MP". There is a fairly wide variety on the market. Its popularity and versatility in use are obvious: it is used to install lightweight roofing coverings, outbuildings, and sandwich panels with insulation function. Perfect for building a fence.

If we talk about the types of corrugated sheeting even more, we should tell you how to read their designations. The two-digit number after the letters shows the profile height, after which numbers are written that indicate the usable width of the sheet in millimeters. That is, this is the distance that the sheet occupies after installation, without areas for overlap with the adjacent sheet. Therefore, if you are calculating how many sheets will be needed for a fence, you should focus on this last figure.

Examples of designations for types of corrugated sheeting:

• S8x1150 (A,B) - for cladding walls and building fences;
• MP18x1100 (A,R) - roofing and construction of fences;
• MP18x1100 (B) - wall cladding and fence construction;
• MP20x1100 (A, B) - wall cladding and fence construction;
• MP20x1100 (R) - roofing;
• S21x1000 (A) - roofing, construction of fences;
• S21x1000 (B) - wall cladding and fence construction;
• NS35x1000 (A) - roofing and construction of fences;
• NS35x1000 (B) - construction of fences;
• MP35x1035 (A) - wall cladding and fence construction;
• MP35x1035 (B) - roofing and construction of fences;
• MP40x1000 (A) - wall cladding and fence construction;
• C44x1000 (A) - roofing and construction of fences;
• S44x1000 (B) - wall cladding and fence construction;
• H60x845 (A) - roofing, construction of fences;
• H60x845 (B) - load-bearing structures, permanent formwork, construction of fences;
• H75x750 (A, B) - load-bearing structures; permanent formwork, construction of fences;
• H114x600 (A, B) - load-bearing structures, permanent formwork.

As for the thickness of the sheet, it can also undergo changes, even in the same type of profile. Sometimes this indicator is indicated when labeling a product, as a fractional number. If, for example, it says “0.6”, this means that the sheet steel in this profile has a thickness of 0.6 mm. For the construction of fences around the local area, a sheet with a thickness of 0.45+0.6 mm is usually used. This is quite enough for reliability.

Based on the above, for the construction of a simple fence from corrugated sheets, the best decision would be to choose sheets marked C (wall) or MP - a universal sheet, the wave height of which is 18+21 mm. Sometimes they are used with a shallower wave height - 8+10 mm, but for reliable fencing such material will still be rather weak, especially considering the climatic conditions in which the building is located. Under the pressure of winds and hurricanes, such a thin fence may not withstand. Well, if you want to choose a profiled sheet with a wave height of more than 30 mm, this is also not worth doing, since this is simply an extra expense without any particular practical benefit for the owners.

It is unlikely that there will be many people who want to make a fence for their site from simple galvanized steel - it will look unaesthetic, too simple and uncomfortable. Instead of habitability, the impression will be created of some kind of temporary unfinished housing, eternal construction. In order for the fence to give a feeling of not only external protection, but also of calm isolation and comfort, it should be mounted from sheets with a polymer coating.

What types of corrugated sheeting are there?

Polyester. The most affordable, where the cost does not mean low quality. This protective and decorative coating is quite resistant to temperature changes, perfectly protects the metal from corrosion, does not collapse under the aggressive influence of sunlight, and does not fade in the sun. Thanks to these qualities, the product remains in its original form for many years. However, polyester still has a significant drawback: it is easily scratched if handled carelessly. Unfortunately, it cannot withstand high abrasive loads.

But if you want to choose polyester, which is fully justified by its price, aesthetics, and protection, then it is best to choose a matte finish rather than gloss. In this case, the coating turns out to be more resistant to abrasive influences, and small defects will not be so visible on its surface. It also looks more pleasant due to the fact that it does not produce glare in bright sunshine. Another plus: profiled sheets treated with a matte polymer coating have an interesting textured pattern that will pleasantly fit into the design of your site.

Pural coating. This coating is based on pural - a multipolymer composite that combines the best qualities of polyurethane, acrylic, and polyamide, which are included in it. This is a higher level of quality and durability of a product wearing a coating of this kind.

Corrugated sheeting with a pural coating usually lasts up to 50 years without losing its aesthetic qualities. Resistant resistance to external aggressive environmental factors allows it to remain in a beautiful, original form for a very long time. Such sheets are often used for roofing work. For a fence this is also just an ideal option. But given the very high cost, which is many times higher than the price of a polyester-coated sheet, using this type is too expensive and impractical.

Plastisol coating. This material is based on polyvinyl chloride. It is valued because it very reliably protects the sheet from various external influences, including the action of abrasives on it. With such a coating, profiled sheets have a very beautiful design. A wide range of design varieties, many color and texture solutions, with the help of which natural materials are often imitated - all this makes corrugated sheets with this coating very popular among designers.

But the plastisol coating still has disadvantages, and they are quite significant. For example, it does not like high temperatures, so it is not recommended for use in hot regions. Regarding resistance to sunlight, there is a tendency to fade on the sunny side. Therefore, if you plan to use plastisol on the sunny side, it is better to choose the lightest possible shades, then the loss of color will not be so noticeable.

Plastisol corrugated sheeting is mainly used for roofing work. The construction of a fence from this material is still in doubt due to the disadvantages described above. Although, if we talk about durability and reliability, then this is perhaps the most reliable protector from storms, hail and other natural influences.

PVDF coating. It is a composite composition based on acrylic (approximately 20%) and polyvinyl fluoride (approximately 80%). This is truly a winner in terms of durability and longevity. Resistant to any aggressive external influences. Service life - more than 50 years. Suitable for any climatic conditions, feels great under any operating conditions. It is not destroyed due to chemical influences in areas with unfavorable conditions associated with industrial emissions into the atmosphere.

There is only one drawback - the high price, due to which there is no need to talk about the widespread use of such products. After all, it is much more profitable for an ordinary home owner to buy polyester flooring, which is affordable. Very often, for a fence, sheet footage is purchased with some reserve, so that the damaged areas can later be repaired by replacing them with new components.

Having planned the construction of a fence, you should sketch out a diagram that will help you build an even and beautiful fence from corrugated board with your own hands; you can see the video in our article. Overly complex designs do not always justify themselves and require greater skill, greater investment and scale of work. The main task of this article is to teach you how to make a regular, neat and durable fence from corrugated sheets with your own hands. For example, a simple fence made of corrugated board according to a scheme without a foundation.

To install such a fence, a common fence is not made for the entire length of the fence. Each support pillar will be dug in separately. If everything is done correctly and accurately, this fencing option turns out to be strong and durable.

A hole is dug or drilled for each pillar in the form of a well. In order for the fence to stand firmly and not deform, it is necessary to make the depth below the freezing level of the ground. For example, if in a given area the ground freezes to a depth of 0.8 m, then the depth of the well should be approximately 1.3 m. It is best to check this parameter with local construction companies, since the specific composition of the soil in a given area plays a significant role in determining the depth of the well .

Installation of support stands. For supports, metal pipes are used - both round and rectangular or square in profile. It is most convenient to install a square section of 50x50 or better 60x60, the wall should be 3 mm. If the pipes are round, you need to take a diameter of 50 mm or more.

Concreting a well with a stand. The well is filled with sand and gravel and concreted.

Attaching jumpers to racks. Jumper logs are attached to the posts using welding or mechanical means. For 1 post you will need as many jumpers as the fence is high. For example, if the height of the fence is planned to be no more than 2 m, then attach 2 jumpers per post - at the top and bottom. At the same time, 250-300 mm retreat from the edges of the fence. If the fence is higher, then another jumper is needed in the center of each post. If the fence is very high, then the approximate ratio of the distances between the lintels and joists is as follows: lintel per meter of height.

Attaching corrugated sheets to pillars using jumpers. The corrugated sheets are attached using roofing screws with an overlap in one wave. The fasteners are installed one after another where the lower part is adjacent to the cross member.

This scheme is quite simple if you carefully follow the tips for installing such fences.

When deciding on the amount of materials, you must first determine how long the fence will be required. The total length should be calculated, as well as the length of each side. Next, you should think about the height of the fence.

How to determine the number of corrugated sheet elements. This is not so difficult to do: you should divide the perimeter of the fence (the sum of the lengths of all sides) by the usable width of the sheet. Round the resulting figure upward. The length of the sheets depends on the height of the fence, which is planned by the customer. It should be taken into account that the sheets will be attached to support posts with some clearance from the ground surface. This clearance can be approximately 100-150 mm. It should be remembered that the profiled sheets should not rest against the ground.

Determining the number and length of fence posts. The length is calculated based on the depth of immersion in the ground, plus the planned height of the fence. For example, if the depth of the well is 1.2 m, and the planned height of the fence is 1.5 m, then the total length of each 60x60x3 pipe-rack is 2.7 m. During installation, the fence is raised above the ground level, so the upper parts of the racks will be outside can not see.

What should be the distance between the posts? The distance is 2-3 m if it is an area with calm climatic conditions, protected from wind and squalls. In areas where there are often strong winds, support stands are placed at a shorter distance.

If you plan to install a solid fence, then the length of the gaps between the posts may not be the same everywhere. If the fence is installed in sections, that is, each of the spans is filled so that the column is visible, it is better that several whole profiled sheets are placed in one section. In extreme cases, the number of corrugated sheets can be a multiple of half a corrugated sheet. If done differently, a lot of material will be wasted.

The number of racks is calculated for each side of the house, taking into account the distance between them. After which the exact interval in centimeters is calculated, so that during the work you can act according to this most accurate marking.

The total number of profile pipes that are best suited for cross-beams is determined simply: the perimeter of the fence is multiplied by the number of cross-beams. As for the cross-sectional dimensions, some clarifications need to be made here.

Most often, pipes of 40x20 mm are taken for such purposes; many purchase such products with a cross-section of 1.5 mm. But then, due to the insufficiently dense cross-section, the installed fence is not very stable and begins to wobble in windy weather. This is because these pipe parameters are not good enough for such an application.

The best load-bearing lintels are made from a pipe with parameters 40x25x2.0, although it is also possible to take 40x20x2.0. The first, although slightly increased in size, has a lateral rigidity of the enclosing structure that is one and a half times greater than the second. In areas with frequent strong gusts of wind, this is especially noticeable.

The logs are connected to the support posts by welding. This fact also favors a pipe with a wall of 2 mm. It is very difficult to weld a one and a half millimeter steel pipe without burning, especially for a novice welder. The “two” will be welded without problems.

Weldless fastening. This is a bolt-on mount. It is used in cases where there is no welding equipment, or the owner is afraid of ruining something with inept welding. Fastening with bolts is carried out as usual; all home craftsmen know this.

Another tip is to buy special “crabs” - fastenings that will simplify the solution of this problem. This bracket is very easy to install. This is done using roofing screws, which are used to fix the corrugated sheet to the cross-beams.

Of course, such fastening is slightly inferior in strength to welding, but in terms of simplicity of execution it is completely justified. The only caveat: if the crossbars are mounted by welding, they can be combined at any points. If the fastening is mechanical, then the profile pipes will have to be redrawn so as to join them exactly on the support pillar.

Profile screws. Definitely needed for attaching corrugated sheets to joists. Their number is calculated depending on the size of the fence and the nuances of its configuration.

For example, if you screw screws into every second wave, then for C20, MP20 you will need 4 screws per crossbar. With two lags - 8 pieces each, with three lags - 12 pieces each.

If you use a high-quality screwdriver, then the self-tapping screws with their countersinking tip-drill fit perfectly into the base without pre-drilling holes. The hexagonal head distributes the rotation, a press washer equipped with a rubber gasket protects the joint from moisture, which can lead to corrosion of the metal in the place where the holes are made in it.

A wide selection of self-tapping screws helps you choose them to match the color of the corrugated sheet. In this case, at the joints of the sheets they become almost invisible. To install fences, it is best to buy self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4.8 mm. The length may vary, but the most optimal is 19 mm. This length allows the self-tapping screw to pass through the metal and one wall of the profile pipe-rack without resting against its other wall.

If installation is carried out on crab brackets using self-tapping screws, you should buy them with some reserve.

Cement, sand, gravel (crushed stone). All this is needed in order to fill and concrete the support pillars. When calculating the quantity, you should take into account the number of pillars and the depth of the wells for installation.

Tools. Everything is very simple: a shovel, a drill, a container for mixing concrete, a tape measure, a level, a marking cord. You also need a screwdriver or drill with good speed control and a head of 8. Even better if you have a welding machine. In order to cut metal and clean profile pipes from corrosion before priming, you need a grinder. It should come with a brush with extra bristles.

The work also requires other devices, which will be mentioned below in the description of the fencing installation process.

Let's look in detail, step by step, at how to make a fence from corrugated sheets with your own hands; you can find the video here. This description was made by a master who learned from his own experience all the subtleties and tricks of this process, in order not to call on any craftsmen for help. Of course, sometimes you need help, but there are different situations when even such a voluminous work has to be done alone.

Terrain marking. Pegs are installed at the two extreme points of the fence. A cord is stretched between them - this will be the fence line. Next, you need to remove all obstacles to work in the area of ​​this line - debris, stones, large plants.

We install two foundation pillars, which for now will mark one side of the fence. They must be on a strictly horizontal line with their upper parts. And they should be installed slightly higher than the planned height. This will help make the next steps easier. Later they can be trimmed after the concrete has hardened. These pillars are installed in the same way as other supports.

To prevent the fence from becoming deformed in the future due to winter soil uplift, concreting is carried out at the very bottom of the well. If the ground freezes, then the support will remain in place, since the action of tangential forces will occur above the concreted area. This will give a good guarantee and stability for the entire structure throughout its entire service life.

So, as already mentioned, first two pillars are installed at the borders and connected with a rope. After being carried out preparatory work After cleaning the fence line, the rope can be removed. The designated points are used for drilling wells and installing supports. The diameter of the drill should be 180-200 mm with a pipe diameter of 60x60. This is necessary in order to make a good concrete belt for the post, thereby ensuring a reliable installation. It is not worth working with a drill having a larger diameter, as this will require additional physical costs, more concrete solution for the same initial result.

Cleaning of pipes from rust and plaque is carried out before installation - right now it is much easier to do this than after it. After cleaning, the products must be immediately coated with anti-corrosion coatings or painted.

Installation of end posts. They must be positioned strictly vertically. It is necessary to control both the longitudinal and transverse lines. To do this, it is best to use a building level with a magnetic platform, which is attracted to the pipe to free the installer’s hands. An even more accurate result will be achieved if two levels are used so that two planes can be controlled at once.

After installing the outer supports and trimming them to one horizontal line, an action is carried out that can be called a useful trick. The fact is that a string is stretched in the center of the cut posts (this can be a steel wire with a diameter of 1 mm). On the one hand, it is tied to the top of the post to a loop welded to it or inserted into a drilled hole. Be sure to go to the top of the pillar! On the other support, the wire is only inserted into the eye or hole, but not tied, and a counterweight is hung on the threaded end. These can be bricks, or a weight, a blank - an object weighing 15-20 kg.

The result is an ideal layout of the fence, which can be erected along this even line without fear of “mowing” somewhere.

We determine the installation step of the supports. How to do this was described above. Let's say that the calculations resulted in a value of 2.9 m. We measure this distance using a tape measure from the first support. The center point of the new support will help to fix a new plumb line - an object suspended on a string with a hook. This can be a nylon cord or a steel chain with a weight. The plumb line shows exactly where to drill the next well. Moreover, it accurately shows the center of the well.

We are digging a well. Before drilling, you should dig a small hole, the width and depth of a shovel bayonet. Next, we drill the hole with a drill. After deepening the tool by 100-150 mm, the drill is removed and soil is selected from the resulting hole. In order to keep the “workplace” in order and make it convenient to work, it is best to immediately throw the soil into a wheelbarrow and take it away.

We deepen the drill further, but its length is shorter than the planned depth of the well. To do this we take a segment steel pipe as an “extension” of the drill. We screw the “extension” into place of the transverse handle. On the other side of the “extension” we screw the handle. Now the length is enough to drill a deeper well.

If, when drilling, the tool encounters difficult-to-pass layers, the obstacle should be removed with a sharp reinforcing rod with a diameter of 20 mm. If you encounter clay, you can add a little water to the hole.

Another problem when working with a drill: the tool may inadvertently deviate from the vertical direction. To do this, it is necessary from time to time to lower a plumb line into the hole, which should be located there in the center.

Approaching the planned depth, measurements must be taken from time to time. The depth should not be measured from the ground line with a tape measure - it may be uneven.

Measurements are taken from the same string. It is better to use a laser tape measure, placing it on the string and directing the beam to the bottom. If the depth is insufficient, you need to continue drilling. If by chance it turns out deeper, you can pour a little clay there and trample it thoroughly with the help of a long beam.

As for laser roulette, not everyone may have it. If you don’t have one, you can use a long stick prepared in advance, on which a line is drawn indicating the desired height. The position of the line relative to the string will indicate whether the well depth is sufficient. All these subtleties are necessary to ensure that all the columns fit perfectly along the top horizontal without additional trimming. Which, of course, will greatly simplify further actions.

So, the pipes of the required length are cut, the wells are dug. For closer contact with concrete, small pieces of iron can be welded to the pipe walls at the pouring site.

Installation of pillars and pouring of concrete belt. It is best to do this immediately after drilling a well, in order to avoid littering the holes and flooding them with water. We install the pipe in the center. The top runs exactly along the string. Adjust the bottom side for level. Next, the vertical is adjusted along the plane of the fence. We fix the pipe with temporary supports. The solution is prepared at the rate of: M400 cement, sand, fine gravel in a ratio of 1:2:4. It is better to mix it in a trough without a concrete mixer. To fill about 1 m deep you will need about 30 liters of solution, or 3 buckets.

When pouring the solution, make a bayonet - pierce the fill with a reinforcing rod to remove air cavities. The height of concrete poured into the pit is controlled using a rail with a mark that corresponds to the calculated height from the concreting level to the ground surface. After pouring, the stand is left alone for a day. At this time, they are digging another well and installing the next pillar.

After 24 hours, the concrete should set well and you can continue filling the well. It is also worth checking the position of the support once again.

The upper part of the well is filled with sand and gravel. When any soil freezes, as a rule, it swells and lifts what is built into it. A loose mixture of sand and gravel (PGS) is not subject to such influences. Pour the mixture 50-70 cm thick, then compact it well using a wooden stick or the handle of a shovel. All this is done until the hole is filled to the very surface of the earth.

The master, who shares here all his secrets on how to make a fence from corrugated sheets with his own hands, step-by-step instructions, recommends filling the inside of the pipe with cement mortar. In this case, the structure will be more resistant to corrosion, and the strength of the fence will increase. Filling a 60x60 pipe will require a solution slightly larger than a bucket - approximately 13 liters. You can fill it using a homemade funnel from a plastic bottle. The funnel is filled with a trowel, and the seal is made with a long reinforcing rod.

Many people probably consider this action unnecessary. But the quality of the fence will undoubtedly improve. Moreover, concrete removes heat, and it will not be so easy to burn a hole in the pipe. You can not concrete the pipes, but simply close the hole on top with special plugs made of metal or plastic. One way or another, the support is ready.

Once all the pillars are installed, you can remove the string and begin installing the lag jumpers. There is one secret that allows you to do this with maximum accuracy. To do this, two simple conductor devices are made from ordinary boards.

The top of the jig is a groove with a top board in order to put the structure on the pole. At a certain distance, which is dictated by the position of the jumper in relation to the end of the post, a shelf is screwed in for laying the top pipe.

The lower part of the conductor is used to lay the lower jumper. The second conductor is made in the same way; it must be symmetrical to the first. Both conductors are hung on two poles located nearby. Start from the second corner. A horizontal pipe is laid on the lower shelves and leveled. It should reach the corner post.

If the top of the posts is aligned with the string, it is level, and if the jigs are made the same, the jumper will also be in a perfectly horizontal position. The pipe is then lightly welded to the supports. Exactly the same operation with the pipe for the joists is done at the top. After tack welding, the conductors are removed and moved further to other fence supports. And the supplied pipes are welded firmly, forever.

So, the master assembled the frame for the fence without outside help, making everything perfectly even and neat. This work serves as proof that even such a seemingly labor-intensive task as installing a fence can be done without hired labor, saving money. At the end of the installation of the frame, excess slag is removed from the welding areas, and the entire structure is painted.

Installation of corrugated sheets on the frame can also be done without anyone’s help, and also using some devices for ease of work.

First of all, a conductor is made from boards. To do this, take one long board, which will serve as the top part. The support board is used to move along the upper beam; its thickness should be equal to the width of the profile pipe. The second board should rest against the side edge of the profiled sheet, its lower cut will run along the middle of the height of the profile pipe. The thickness of the board corresponds to the height of the profiled sheet. The top plate makes a groove for the sheet, in which the sheet is held until final fixation using self-tapping screws.

The lower part of the jig has a shelf that helps measure the distance of the sheet from the ground. You also need a homemade clothespin with a wedge-shaped cutout - it will serve to temporarily fix the sheets in places where they overlap. A set of boards with wedges of different thicknesses is also prepared, from which you can build an excellent adjustable stand for the side of the sheet, which must be combined with the previous sheet. Such a device will constantly move under the next mounted sheet as work progresses.

We install the planks under the edge of the last sheet, which is already installed on the pillars, so that the sheet rests against them. To do this, insert a wedge between the planks. Using a wedge, this support is adjusted to the desired height. Some craftsmen, instead of a wedge and boards, use a trapezoidal jack, which every motorist has, which is also very convenient.

A conductor is hung along the far cut of the profiled sheet that is being installed. The sheet is inserted into the groove, the lower edge rests against the shelf. The required height position of the sheet is ensured. Advice: it is better to do this work with gloves on, as the edges of the sheet are sharp and you can cut your hands deeply.

If the jig is installed accurately, the waves of two adjacent sheets will exactly coincide. At the bottom, the edge in the overlapping sheets will rest against a support made of planks. Now all that remains is to fasten the sheets on top in places where they overlap using a homemade clothespin. How to do it is described above. This fastening securely holds the sheet; even the wind cannot disturb this position. And the master’s hands are free.

Now you can start marking for installing screws. Take a ruler, preferably a plastic one, you can make it from an unnecessary PVC panel for cladding. It will not scratch the paint of the corrugated sheet; its light weight helps the master to easily manipulate it. To prevent the plastic from sliding on the surface, you can stick a patch or electrical tape on the back side. When installing the ruler, you should focus on the already installed screws and the middle of the profile pipe.

The places where screws need to be screwed in are marked with a marker. All this is done both along the upper and lower lines of the jumper.

After the markings have been made and the sheet is held well in the desired position, you can finally fasten it with self-tapping screws. Special roofing screws secure the sheet without pre-drilling it. To avoid the screw slipping or moving in the wrong direction, or to prevent kinking, it is still better to slightly drill a small hole with a drill with a 3.9 mm drill bit. You should start from the outermost screws, which are already on the pre-installed sheet. First, a hole is drilled, then a self-tapping screw is screwed in. The same is done on the upper jumper pipe.

When the sheet is fixed at the edges, you can already make holes for the remaining fasteners. Then the screws are screwed in along the entire length of the blade. In order not to reach for a new screw every time, there is one more trick. You can tie a magnet from the speaker of some old radio to a ribbon, attach a whole bunch of screws to it and hang it around your neck. Now you can quickly grab screw after screw and screw in one after another without any extra effort.

It is very important to adjust the screwdriver stroke well so that the screws are screwed in well and evenly. Neither weak nor strong tightening will provide good fixation. If you tighten it too much, the screw will go very deep, which can cause the sheet to become deformed; if it is too weak, it will remain sticking out of the sheet, which is also unacceptable. In addition, it is necessary to ensure the correct direction of screwing in the self-tapping screw, which affects not only the strength of the joining of the sheets, but also the very aesthetic appearance of the structure.

By the way, if you still have to drill holes, you can advise purchasing steel rivets instead of self-tapping screws. It is best to use a steel riveter for fastening; it is steel that will provide the fastening with a long life without corrosion. If you use riveters made of some alloys, then in this case it is not necessary to guarantee the anti-corrosion of the fasteners. In addition, such fasteners, unlike self-tapping screws, will certainly not be unscrewed by some “well-wisher”.

Next, the conductor is moved to another place, the stand from the planks is removed to move it to another place, where a new sheet is installed - and so on until the very end, until the entire fence is installed. The last sheet is sometimes cut to width, this is done with metal scissors. Strong advice: do not use a grinder for this - it can spoil the surface, damage the coating, melt the cut edge under high temperature, which can subsequently lead to corrosion.

A detailed description of how to build a fence from corrugated sheets with your own hands without outside help can provide excellent practical results if:

• learn how to choose the right material for building a fence;
• acquire knowledge about markings and types of corrugated sheets;
• properly prepare for this process: collect the necessary tools, parts, materials, make the recommended devices
• carefully read the article, watch the video and believe that all this is possible

Fencing a summer cottage, building a fence is one of the first tasks on the list that needs to be solved by a summer resident who has started arranging his plot. To hide the territory from prying eyes, you can make a practical fence from corrugated board with your own hands. In this article we will look at how to build this fence, paying close attention to the various nuances and secrets of installation.

A fence made of this material can be quickly installed - the required line along the perimeter is determined, pillars and cross posts are installed, and then corrugated sheets are attached. The owners feel comfortable behind such a fence - it protects from prying eyes and is quite strong.

The color of the fence can go well with the decoration of the house and enliven the landscape. A fence made of corrugated sheets is not a dull and faceless structure; even in its simplest form it is pleasing to the eye

When buying profiled sheets, be sure to pay attention to the price - you shouldn’t skimp here. A low price indicates the same quality - poor quality of rolled products, polymer layer, galvanization, or too thin metal that is not suitable for a fence.

When choosing a sheet, do not go for cheapness; the fence is not built for one year. C8 corrugated sheeting is excellent for both roofing and fence construction

Please note the requirements for the distance from the fence to buildings:

To install a fence made of corrugated sheets, you will need the following materials:

• corrugated sheeting + pipes for support posts and pipes for logs;
• crushed stone + cement + sand;
• rope, primer, level;
• welding machine + container for cement mortar;
• drill + drill;
• riveter + rivets or metal screws.

Pillars can also be used asbestos-cement or wooden. If you choose wooden poles, treat them with an antiseptic before starting work. The part that will be buried must be especially durable - it can be treated with a blowtorch and then with a bitumen primer.

Step-by-step analysis of construction stages

At the first stage, it is necessary to make precise markings - determine where the gates and wicket will be located, and mark the locations for the pillars. The pillars are installed at a distance of no more than three meters from each other. Determine the desired height of the perimeter fence to calculate the amount of material needed.

Stage #2 - installation of support pillars

These can be pipes with a square (not less than 50/50mm) or round cross-section (not less than 76 mm). The upper holes can be welded to prevent moisture from entering.

Scheme for installing supports for a corrugated fence. Metal pipes are used as supports; crushed stone can be poured into the bottom of the holes or a sand cushion can be made. Installation on two lags.

Next you need to dig holes for the pillars 1-1.5 m deep, 150 mm wide. You can use a hand drill. The depth of the underground part of the supports depends on the height of the fence; the higher the fence is planned, the greater the depth the supports need to be dug.

Installation diagram of a fence made of corrugated board in three logs. Profile pipes are used as support pillars and joists.

The posts must be well reinforced because such fencing is susceptible to wind. If the supports are poorly strengthened, the fence, a large area of ​​which is exposed to the wind, may partially topple. The bottom of the post holes is filled with medium-fraction gravel (layer about 150-200 mm), then the post is installed and cement mortar is poured.

Note! To install the pillars, you need to use a plumb line; they must be installed strictly vertically. To ensure good fixation of the supports, they can be strengthened by welding metal rods on both sides and burying them in the ground. After the supports are filled with mortar, they must be left for three days for the concrete to completely harden.

When the foundation hardens, we proceed to installing the logs - a steel transverse profile is mounted to attach a profiled sheet to it. A profiled pipe (section 40/25 mm) is suitable for the logs. The number of logs in each section depends on the height of the fence. At a height of 1.7 m, two logs are sufficient; at a height of 1.7 – 2 m and above, the installation of three logs will be required - at the top, bottom and in the middle. The upper and lower logs are installed at a distance of 4 cm from the top and from the edge of the ground. Electric welding for their fastening is the most reliable method of fixation. To protect against rust, joists and poles are coated with a special primer after installation. It is better to do this at this stage, since after installing the sheets it will be very inconvenient to work with the primer.

The installation of a fence also depends on the type of soil. If the soil is soft, its individual sections, especially in spring, may sag, and the same will happen with pillars installed in such soil. In soft soil, it is better to build a strip foundation for installing pillars. It is constructed like this: a ribbon box is made along the bottom of the pillars. The height of the box is approximately 20 cm, to make it durable, the boards are held together with bars or wire. Then we lay a layer of waterproofing along the walls of the structure and fill it with concrete. Even if the soil near the supports is washed away, the strip foundation will give strength and stability to the fence.

We are constructing a strip foundation for a fence made of corrugated sheets installed in soft soil. The box is fixed between the bars, after filling with cement you will get a very strong and reliable structure, you don’t have to worry about such a fence

Stage #3 – install corrugated sheeting on the joists

For fastening we use metal screws (length 35 mm, pitch 500 mm). The corrugated sheets are joined together with an overlap.

Advice! When installing a fence made of corrugated sheets, use work gloves - corrugated sheets are quite sharp material, there is a risk of injury.

As they say, it is better to see once than to hear a hundred times. We invite you to watch a video with an installation example:

A fence made of corrugated sheets looks good, it is durable and practical, the material can easily withstand difficult weather conditions, sudden temperature changes, extreme heat and cold. Therefore, do not treat this solution as a temporary one. If pillars that do not look particularly aesthetically pleasing are lined with brick or stone (or use a colored sheet), then the fence will look expensive and beautiful.

Alternatively, the supports can be lined with artificial or natural stone or brick - such a fence looks much more impressive and is much more durable. But, of course, this will require considerable additional costs.

Corrugated sheeting combines well with other materials, for example, forging. In this version of the fence, corrugated board covers the upper part of the fence, you can cover only the lower part or use sheets with a gap between them - you will get an original, attractive fence

When installing a fence made of corrugated sheets, scratches on the sheets are almost inevitable. They can be easily eliminated using a can of spray paint. It is better to buy a couple of cans of paint in a suitable color in advance. From the outside, the fence looks like a solid wall, without seams, strong and reliably hiding the yard from prying eyes.

Various options for fences made of corrugated sheets demonstrate the aesthetics of this material, its good compatibility with both stone and brick. It is enough to show a little imagination to create not only a practical, but also a beautiful fence

There is no additional expense required for the maintenance of such a fence, which cannot be said about a wooden fence, and this is another plus in favor of installing a fence made of corrugated sheets.

A fence made from corrugated sheets with your own hands is one of the most common options for creating a fence in a private home or country house. Its undeniable advantages include the ability to create a durable and impenetrable fence with or without a foundation for strength, choosing different sizes and shapes. In 2 years it will be 200 years since the invention of corrugated sheets by the Englishman Henry Palmer. And since then, its scope of application has spread from the roof of a house to walls, the construction of load-bearing structures and fences.

An excellent option for a fence for a garden

Installing a fence from corrugated sheets with your own hands is a relatively simple and common practice. People willingly resort to it to install it at the dacha from curious neighbors, or to build the same option in a village house.

Installing a fence made of corrugated sheets is rarely dictated by considerations other than reliability, speed of installation and practicality. in this case little attention is paid. Although the construction of a fence from a wavy or corrugated profile presupposes its own special urban aesthetics.

Like any type of fencing, such a structure has certain advantages and disadvantages. They must be taken into account before deciding to install a fence made of this material.

pros

You should not treat this type of fencing with prejudice.

A huge number of people consider it the best option for a summer house and even a country house when it comes to the reliability and durability of the building.

The photo shows a fence with elements.

Gates with forging elements

Judging by the number of turnkey requests from construction companies, the consumer is satisfied not so much with the price as with the preferences received:

• the extreme speed of the erected fence, which appears around the plot of land literally in a matter of hours (although this depends on certain nuances);
• an arbitrary height from which the fence can be built (since it turns out to be solid and perfectly serves the main purpose - protection from prying eyes). You can order a profiled sheet of any required height;
• excellent protective function, which is achieved thanks to the sharp edge of the corrugated sheet (it is much more difficult to get over it than through any other type of fence);
• The doublet of durability and affordable cost has an irresistible effect on many owners. Building a fence from corrugated sheets with your own hands only costs the cost of the material, but many people can afford it;
• it does not lose its qualities for decades, so such a fence can easily be passed on to grandchildren and will not require any special care or repairs;
• As for, you can easily make a beautiful fence from a profiled metal sheet. You can also use material design types for this.

Beautiful hedge for a private house

So the construction of such a fence has its own undeniable advantages, and has made it a widespread and even fashionable trend. Of course, for those who are building a house slowly and investing significant funds, this option may seem too simple.

Minuses

Upon closer examination, even the most successful project has certain disadvantages, especially if the price is not particularly important. Often, what some consider an advantage, in the understanding of others, turns into disadvantages. For example, inaccessibility to prying eyes turns into a lack of fresh air and non-compliance with fire safety rules.

Sheet options

The requirements for the quality of the material are as follows:

• sheet thickness (experts recommend taking the MP series for fence construction, as a lightweight, convenient and inexpensive option, which, although thinner than other series, is very easy to install and performs its functions perfectly);
• the length of the product can be variable, but usually it is cut to the required length at the point of sale (if you make all the dimensions in advance, you can bring home ready-made blanks for the assembled structure);
• color (nowadays there are numerous color options in corrugated sheets, you just need to decide what you need, and even if it’s not there, you can always order it from the warehouse);
• metal coating, which may vary, but polyvinyl chloride, pural (polyurethane, acrylic and polyamide) or matte polyester have earned favorable consumer reviews;
• pattern (with a high wave, wide or narrow, imitation, with rounded or reinforced ridges, groove, and so on);
• useful usable area (the width of the sheet, which is used to create a decorative component and does not go to waste).

It can be installed from any, even the simplest and thinnest corrugated sheet, especially if this structure is planned as a temporary means of demarcation. Then the simplest galvanizing will do.

If capital and profiled sheets are planned, then the selection should be taken responsibly. For example, for a general area, buy from the PM series, and for a gate, buy a permanent one that is resistant to damage.

Fencing on a suburban area

Preparation for installation

The step-by-step instructions always recommend starting with measuring the expected area, taking into account its features and purchasing everything you need. The material for the canvas is not all that is needed. Need fasteners and support poles. And if the fence is installed using a combined method, then first you will have to tinker with the support posts.

This process can last quite a long time if the support pillars are made of brick or the corrugated sheet is installed on a concrete foundation.

A concrete structure is not a necessary element during assembly, but the supplied corrugated sheet looks more aesthetically pleasing, animals and small rodents cannot penetrate under it, and besides, such a structure will not allow it to be quickly built. You can simply purchase ready-made pillars, they are usually sold complete with fasteners, make them yourself from cheaper pipes, build them from brick or stone, or use scrap materials (wood).

Fencing on a strip foundation

A reliable foundation will give the fence strength, designed for decades of reliable service, and guarantees the ability to avoid such construction for many years.
Having marked the area along the line of the fence, dug a trench for the foundation and pit, and prepared all the necessary tools and materials, we can assume that preparation for construction is complete.

Pole installation diagram

The technology of this process does not vary much, except when brick is used:

• for a wooden pole, a depth of at least 50 cm into the soil is required, provided that the pole is 1.5 m high;
• it is strengthened in three ways - by driving into the ground, partial concreting (at the top), and full concreting, when the hole is carefully filled with concrete to the bottom;
• asbestos-cement pillars are poured to the surface on sandy soil or a cap is left when the soil is prone to bulging;
• The brick pillar begins to be installed after the trench is concreted. As a base for laying bricks, a frame made of metal reinforcement, filled with concrete, or a pipe already embedded in concrete is used.

The pole is installed according to the markings

The method of fastening depends on the nature of the soil and the material of the support column, but the installation order does not change:

1. Crushed stone or broken brick is poured into the bottom of the pit (a metal sleeve can be used in a wooden post).
2. A pillar is installed vertically into it, the evenness of which is controlled until the concrete sets.
3. The dug hole with a support is completely filled with concrete.
4. Before hardening, the concrete is covered with waterproofing material.
5. When installing asbestos cement, an additional metal rod is used on which it is mounted.
6. In the place where it will be located, the width of the distance between the pillars is calculated separately.

Otherwise, a very recently built fence can quickly become unusable. First, the corner posts are mounted, then a rope or twine is pulled between them. And only after that they begin further installation.

Photo of the finished fence.

Fence with forging elements

Strip foundation device

The process of installing a strip foundation for a fence is no different from the same process used in building a house:

1. The bottom of the dug trench is filled with a special cushion (brick fragments, crushed stone or stone mixed with sand.
2. The pillow is filled with water and thoroughly compacted.
3. Wooden formwork made from boards capable of supporting the weight of the structure is exhibited.
4. A frame of reinforcement is laid inside the trench, which is secured by welding or without welding.
5. If there is no welding machine, take a more flexible type of rods and, without welding, tie the frame together with binding wire.
6. The prepared concrete is poured and left until it hardens completely.

Foundation layout diagram

To avoid welding, you can use monolithic pouring at ground level, as is done when building a house. Then you need to think about how to close the potential gap between the concrete and the fence.

Fencing for a summer residence

It is the most popular type of fencing among Russians. Made from profiled cold-rolled steel sheet. It has a number of advantages and has a simple installation design. Prices for a fence made of corrugated sheets are relatively inexpensive.

Fence made of corrugated sheets, price including installation

The Zaboria company offers to use our turnkey installation of corrugated sheet fences, which you can order without leaving your home. For you, our installation teams, who have undergone special training, will install a beautiful and reliable fence of any configuration. We are a manufacturer of almost all components for fences made of profiled sheets. We sell all materials almost at cost. Therefore, the cost of fences made of corrugated board starts at only 970 rubles, per p/m.
Below are the most commonly ordered fence configurations.

• What's included in the price?
  The price includes: RAL screws to match the color of the corrugated board, plugs, posts 60x60 for a height of less than 2.5m, and 80x80x3 for a height of more than 2.5m. The pillars are installed at a distance of 2.5 m by driving to a depth of 1.2 m. All prices include VAT.
• How to pay?
  You can pay for your order in 3 ways:
  - to the field manager when concluding a contract;
  - cash at our sales offices;
  - by card or transfer to our bank account.
• If you have material
  You can order only installation without material. Installation of a fence made of corrugated sheets without material from 260 rubles. p/m.

• If you haven’t decided yet or don’t know which option is best, call us or visit our office. ZABORIA specialists will be happy to advise on all questions and help with the choice.

Additional services

Choosing a profiled sheet for a fence

There are several most popular models of profile sheets for the construction of fences: C8, C20, C21. The main characteristics are shown in the table below.

The main and most important parameters when choosing corrugated sheeting for a fence are the profile height and sheet thickness. These two parameters affect the rigidity of the fence and the higher they are, the higher the resistance of the sheet to deformation. In addition, we use Russian-made sheets, because the zinc content in them is higher than in corrugated sheets from China, for example.

Fence made from C8 sheet

Fence made of sheet C20

Fence made from sheet C21

• For fences made of corrugated sheets up to 2 m, we recommend ordering profile sheets of grade C8, for fences from 2 m - C20 and C21 with a sheet thickness of 0.5 mm. Profiled sheets less than 0.5 mm are quite susceptible to deformation from winds and mechanical damage.

Color options

We offer you to choose any of 213 color schemes according to the RAL system. In addition, it can be painted on one side or both, the difference in price is not significant. Today, wooden and stone textured designs are popular, in monotonous colors, standard: green, shades of brown and burgundy. Below are a few of the best-selling flowers this year. Also, you can come to our office and make a choice based on samples, because the colors on the displays may differ from the real ones.

• We recommend that you definitely order a fence made of corrugated sheets with a polymer coating. This will protect your fence from environmental influences and extend its service life by more than 2 times compared to simply galvanized corrugated sheets.

Velor (RAL 3005)

Granite (RAL 7026)

Green Moss (RAL 6005)

Correct installation of a corrugated fence

There are no established standards for installation as such. Each company carries out installation differently. But over 19 years of building fences for ourselves, we have developed a clear sequence of actions, following which, corrugated fences will look perfect and will last for decades.

1. After marking the perimeter, marks are applied to the installation locations of the pillars. Moreover, you should start marking from the corner marks inward. This way, the line is as straight as possible.
2. The recommended distance between posts is from 2.5m to 3m. If the span between the pillars is greater, the logs will sag over time under the weight of the corrugated sheeting and play under the influence of winds. A distance of less than 2.5 m is not economically feasible.
3. The support pillars are made of profiled pipe 60x60 mm wide with a wall thickness of 2 mm. For fences with a height of more than 2m, posts of 80x80 mm with a thickness of 3 mm are recommended.
4. The depth of the hole for the support posts is determined by the type and depth of soil freezing, as well as the height of the fence. In the Central region, the soil can freeze up to 1 m. Accordingly, the pit should be 1 m deep and 150 mm wide. The bottom of the pit is covered with gravel, a layer of approximately 200 mm. After which the pillar is installed and filled with cement mortar or concrete.
5. Installation of logs on pillars can begin 2-3 after the cement mortar has hardened. Longitudinal logs are also a profiled pipe, but with a smaller size of 40x20 mm and a wall thickness of 1.5-2 mm.
6. The logs are attached to the poles in two ways: welding or mounting fastening. If the logs were welded, then the welded areas must be painted to prevent corrosion.
7. The number of logs is determined by the height of the fence. So, for fences up to 1.8 m high, you can use two logs, for fences higher - 3 or more.
8. After the fence frame is erected, the upper holes of the posts are welded or special covers are installed on them. All welding areas are painted to prevent corrosion.
9. Sheets of corrugated sheets are attached to the logs, overlapping each other, with special self-tapping screws for fences. We strongly do not recommend using rivets.
10. The corrugated sheet is delivered to the site already painted. If you damage a custom paint powder coated sheet, touching it up can be a hassle.

Samples of our work

Advantages of profiled sheets

• Excellent soundproofing
  A fence made of corrugated sheets is ideal for installation near highways, roads, construction sites and noisy places, as it prevents the penetration of noise.
• Resistant to temperature changes
  The sheets are made of galvanized steel, on which any, even sudden, temperature changes have almost no effect.
• Durable and reliable
  The service life of the fence is about 20 years, and with powder coating it also has excellent resistance to mechanical deformation.
• May be high
  Ideal for fencing industrial or private areas. The maximum height of a corrugated fence can reach 4 meters.
• Low price
  When taking into account the functionality, practicality, efficiency and other advantages of corrugated fences, the price is even very attractive.
• Ease of maintenance
  Our installation technology is simple and at the same time reliable. And when powder painting a fence, there is no need to even tint it.

How to choose the right corrugated fence?

Every summer resident or owner of a private house faces the problem of installing a new fence. Everyone wants it to be beautiful, reliable, not require subsequent maintenance and suit the price. The listed requirements are satisfied by corrugated sheets (or corrugated sheets) - painted (less often galvanized) or coated with polymer materials corrugated thin-walled steel sheet. Almost every man can install a fence from corrugated sheets with his own hands, without involving third-party specialists.

Which corrugated sheet to choose for the fence

The modern market offers a varied assortment of profiled sheets, which are divided into three conditional groups:

1. C – with a wave height of 8-44 mm. These products are used in the installation of walls, facades and barriers, which include fences.
2. Group H is intended for roofing work. This profiled sheet has increased bending rigidity due to a high (more than 44 mm) wave and a special capillary groove for water drainage.
3. NS is a universal corrugated sheet with a wave height from 35 to 44 mm for various purposes.

Simple fence made of corrugated sheets

The width of the corrugated sheet is 980-850 mm, it depends on the size of the rolled steel used and the wave profile. According to the standards, the thickness of the steel profiled sheet is 0.45-1 mm (taking into account the tolerance, it can be 0.39 mm). The height of the finished sheet is 1.0 m and then every 0.5 m. You can order a sheet of any size up to 6 m long directly from the manufacturer.

Types of profiled sheets and their application

The corrugated sheeting has a multi-layer coating (except for the cheapest option with a single layer of zinc) and is conditionally divided into three groups:

1. Zinc coating is the cheapest, with a minimum service life.
2. Aluminum-zinc coating made from a mixture of zinc and aluminum with improved characteristics.
3. Polymer coating is the most relevant, consisting of:

• polyester with a matte or glossy structure for use in medium temperature ranges;
• purala (mixtures of polyurethane and polyamide) with increased ultraviolet resistance;
• plastisol based on polyvinyl chloride (PVC) for use in difficult climatic conditions;
• certain types of composites.

The color range is presented very widely. From well-known manufacturers (for example, Ruukki), the color of the coating can be ordered according to the RAL and RR catalogs. Corrugated sheets with prints imitating wood, stone or brickwork look interesting.

Wood-look corrugated sheet fencing

"Brick" metal fence

The parameters described above affect the appearance of the fence, its service life (from 20 years and above) and differ significantly in price. To make a fence from corrugated sheets with your own hands, it is important to choose an acceptable combination of price and quality of the material. Experts consider polymer-coated corrugated sheets of the SP10 and SP20 brands to be optimal for fences.

Technology for installing corrugated fences

You can hire specialists, but it is quite possible to make a fence from corrugated sheets with your own hands with racks from a metal pipe. This task does not require supernatural skills and rare tools, and you can save from 20 to 50% of the cost of the material - that’s how much the work costs.

Fence diagram on posts

Calculation of corrugated sheets and racks for building a fence

To determine the amount of corrugated sheeting, you should remember that each sheet overlaps the next one, and the useful width of the sheet is 40-80 mm less than the actual one. The height is selected depending on the wishes and the availability of a foundation.

A 40*20 mm profile pipe is used as logs (jumpers) for fastening the profiled sheet. It is believed that when using the SP20 profile, two logs are required for a fence height of up to 2 m and three for a higher height. The optimal distance from the logs to the edge of the corrugated sheet is 300 mm.

Racks (supports) for the supporting structure can be made of various materials. It is better to use a square metal pipe with a side of 60 mm and above. The distance between the posts is 2-2.5 meters. To calculate the number of racks you need:

1. Measure the length of the fence, then divide by 2.5.
2. Round the resulting quantity up (the total number of racks, including the corner ones, is 2 more).
3. Calculate the height of the supports taking into account the fact that 30-40% of the length should be in the ground. Therefore, for a fence 2 meters high, the length of the post will be: 2 + 0.35*2 = 2.7 m (approximately).

Profile pipe posts with heel

Fasteners and strips for ends

The amount of fasteners (screws or rivets) is calculated taking into account the fact that the two outer waves of the sheet are attached to the logs and the middle ones every other. That is, one sheet of SP20 is attached at six points. Rivets (the most popular 4*20 mm) and self-tapping screws (preferably 4*25 mm) come in different colors, which allows you to match them to the fence. It is preferable to use self-tapping screws with rubber-coated washers; this prevents damage to the corrugated sheet during installation and loosening of the fastening during operation.

A decorative U-shaped strip serves to frame the end of the fence, gives a finished look and protects the corrugated sheet from rust. It is better to use a plank with rolled edges - it is stronger and does not damage the coating during installation. The length of the slats is 2 m, they are installed overlapping each other (30-50 mm) along the entire length of the fence.

Decorative U-shaped strip

It is useful to purchase an aerosol can with paint of the appropriate color to eliminate possible scratches and abrasions on the profiled sheet. To protect the supporting frame, you will need primer and paint (preferably a neutral gray color to match the back of the fence).

To prepare a concrete solution, you will need sand, crushed stone, and cement in the required quantities (in the transition period of the year - a plasticizer).

Set of tools for construction

To install a corrugated fence with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• drill and shovel for digging holes for racks;
• concrete mixer;
• angle grinder (“grinder”);
• a welding machine for attaching logs to racks (there are other fastening options, but they should not be considered due to their complexity and unreliability);
• drill or screwdriver;
• riveter (when using rivets);
• metal scissors;
• painting tool (for painting the frame);
• measuring instrument (tape measure, thread, bubble and hydraulic level).

Under no circumstances should labor safety requirements be neglected! When working with power tools, safety glasses and comfortable work clothes are required. When welding operations, use a protective shield. The corrugated sheet itself is very sharp and you need to work with it with gloves.

You need to wear protective clothing when working

Frame rack installation technology

To understand how to properly install a fence made of corrugated sheets with your own hands, you should understand the principles of installing the supporting structure. The initial stages of building a frame are its marking, binding to the terrain, determining the type of soil and choosing a method for installing racks.

1. First install the outer and corner posts. They must be at the same height, which is controlled using a hydraulic level. If the level is not long enough, you need to use any intermediate pole or support.
2. The posts can simply be driven into the ground, but it is better to concrete them. To make it easier to align the posts in height, the bottom of the prepared holes is filled with gravel or sand, and it is better to equip the post itself with a heel - a flat platform that facilitates installation.
3. It is mandatory to check the verticality of the racks using a bubble level during and after installation.
4. It is better to give the concrete on top of the ground a cone shape to drain water and prevent it from accumulating at the base of the post.
5. If the length between the outer posts is divided by the number of intermediate ones, you get the exact distance between the centers.
6. After the concrete has hardened and been marked, holes are prepared for the intermediate posts.
7. Pull the thread along the top of the already installed racks (height control), the top and bottom of the racks (control of being on the same straight line).

Intermediate posts are installed in the same way as corner posts, but they must be aligned in the same plane and height according to the tensioned threads. The height of the supports is adjusted by adding or removing a gravel (sand) cushion.

To prevent moisture from getting inside, the top of the racks should be sealed with metal plugs (it’s easier to do this before installation), or use special plastic ones.

As a budget option, you can use the same parts of plastic bottles with bottoms. After putting it on the rack, the bottle is evenly heated with a hair dryer, decreasing in size and fitting the pipe very tightly. It looks interesting and stylish, it is almost impossible to recognize the original item in such plugs!

Technique for attaching joists to supports

After the concrete has hardened, the logs are attached to the supports using electric welding. For a fence 2 m high, the top log should be placed at a height of 0.3 m from the top of the posts, the bottom - 1.7 m. It is easier to splice the logs along the length in advance, controlling the parallelism of the parts to be welded, or in the center of the posts. It is mandatory to control the installation horizontally using a level.

After attaching the logs at the welding points, remove the slag and, if necessary, clean the surfaces with a grinder. Treat the entire frame with primer and then paint it, since after installing the corrugated sheet it will be much more difficult to do this.

If the surface of the land has a significant slope, the posts and joists are placed with a height offset. You can shift each span or through several sections, but always by the same amount and the same number of spans!

Installation and fastening of corrugated sheets

Directly attaching the sheet to the frame is the final operation when building a fence from corrugated sheets with your own hands. Considering that the logs are located strictly level and at the same distance from each other, even before installation you should calculate and mark on the corrugated sheet the places for fasteners with a marker or soft pencil.

The first sheet is leveled strictly and attached to the joists. Subsequent sheets are superimposed and fastened with interception in one wave. Periodically you need to check the verticality of the material being fixed (the height is set by the first sheet).

Installation diagram of a fence made of corrugated sheets with posts

If there is a clear shift in level, you can slightly correct the situation on the next 2-3 sheets by securing one side of the corrugated sheet and slightly stretching the desired loose corner. You can pull the sheet just a few millimeters, but often this is enough to avoid dismantling the fence and starting the operation all over again.

If you need to trim corrugated sheets, it is better to use metal scissors. Use the “grinder” only as a last resort, since there is a high risk of damage to the material, burrs are formed, and the cut edge quickly rusts.

There is no need to place the sheet directly on the foundation (if any) during installation! It is better to leave a gap within 10 mm to prevent wetting and corrosion of the corrugated sheet.

It is important to tighten the screw correctly

Do not clamp the screws too tightly to avoid deformation of the rubber layer of the washer; it is better to use a screwdriver with a selected tightening force. After installation, be sure to remove the protective film (if any), since after a few months it will partially stick to the surface, and in some places it will crumble, giving the fence an untidy, spotted appearance. The final stage is the installation of the decorative strip.

The “wrong side” of the fence

How to build a fence with a strip foundation

Installation of a fence with a foundation

To prevent damage to the bottom of the corrugated sheet, the formation of rust upon contact with the ground and to give the fence an aesthetic appearance, a foundation is used. Making a fence from corrugated board with a foundation with your own hands is more difficult, but also quite feasible. In essence, this is an ordinary shallow strip foundation with an optimal depth of 300-400 mm and a base of 100 mm in height. The width of the foundation is not regulated, 200 mm will be quite enough

To make a foundation between the installed racks, you need to dig a pit of the required depth, then make and install the formwork. Since the base will be visible, it is better not to skimp on the formwork material. OBS board is well suited for these purposes, laminated plywood is even better, and these materials can be used repeatedly by filling the formwork in parts.

The technology itself is no different from pouring a strip foundation for a gazebo or other structure. The work will progress easier and faster using a concrete mixer. To give the foundation strength, it is advisable to use reinforcement, welding at least a few threads to the racks.

Formwork for pouring the foundation

Installation of sectional fences with columns

The most beautiful, but also the most expensive, sectional type fence design, where the sections are separated by columns (posts). To build a fence from corrugated sheets with posts with your own hands, you should first decide on the design and select the necessary material. This can be facing bricks, natural stone, special decorative blocks. There are many options for designing columns and foundations; you only need reasonable imagination and some mason skills.

Scheme of a fence with columns

The posts can be laid out as independent units or covered with installed metal posts, thus modernizing the option of a fence with a foundation. But, in any case, the foundation for the columns should be much stronger and more massive, since the columns themselves have an impressive weight. Reinforcement of the foundation is required, preferably in two rows. When laying a support, you need to fill the voids between the support and the brick with concrete.

Fencing diagram with columns and foundation

If the posts are built without a ready-made fence frame, it is necessary to provide embedded metal parts for subsequent fastening of the logs, while strictly maintaining the horizontal level (both the posts themselves and the embedded parts).

Columns should be installed only after the foundation has dried; it is recommended to lay out no more than 500 mm of column height per day. Every third row of bricks is reinforced with a metal mesh for strength; the seams must be even and of the same size.

To reduce material consumption and facilitate installation, it is recommended to accurately calculate the distance between the posts so that a certain number of corrugated sheets (usually 2 or 3) can be placed in it without trimming. The top of the column must be covered with a ready-made decorative cap or made conical to drain water.

As you can see, the task of how to build a fence from corrugated sheets with your own hands is not too difficult. This can be done by anyone who has the skills to work with metal and concrete. Of course, you can always invite a specialist, but a job done flawlessly on your own will delight you for many years to come!

Video: corrugated fence