How to make summer and winter water supply at the dacha. How to make a water supply system in a dacha with your own hands: rules for laying, installing and arranging Do-it-yourself water supply from a barrel in a dacha

Simple country water supply. Description of installing a cheap pumping station under a rain barrel.

Tools:

Materials:

Work order:

1. Installing a squeegee in the bottom of a rain barrel.

   I drilled a hole in the bottom of the barrel for an inch squeegee (G1), and placed an “American” on it for convenient docking with the pumping station. Separately, I would like to dwell on the description of drilling a hole for the drive. I couldn't find the required drill bit. Marked a circle 4mm smaller in diameter than the external thread of the drive. Next, using a drill with a diameter of 2 mm in increments of approximately 3 mm, I drilled a series of holes along this circle, cut the partitions with a knife and used it to level the hole. You need to do it very carefully, you will ruin the barrel “a couple of empty ones”, a poorly made hole will complicate the sealing of the drive. It is very important to prevent constant leakage directly into the pumping station. The squeegee needs to be released into the barrel by 40-60mm, this will allow the debris to settle at the bottom of the barrel and not be collected by the pump. In addition, a plastic main filter from small debris was perfectly placed on the squeegee inside the barrel.

2. Making an overflow.

   To ensure that the barrel never overfilled, I drilled a hole on top for a sewer plastic pipe with a diameter of 40 mm and glued an adapter with a coupling into the hole. Now, when the barrel is filled, excess water itself drains into the storm drain.

3. Making a stand for a rain barrel.

   I welded a stand for a barrel from the corners. For stability, the stand was made according to the size of a concrete tile 500x500. Inside the stand I made a frame for the pumping station. On top of the stand I made grips for the barrel so that there was no risk of shifting and breaking the seal of the drive.

4. Installation of a pumping station.

   I placed the station under a barrel inside the stand, insulated it with sheet foam from spring-autumn frosts, and attached a decorative and protective picket fence to the outside (the fastening is similar to a fence, but instead of screws I used metric screws, since seasonal disassembly is necessary). I connected a ball valve to the output of the station (led it outside) and a metal-plastic pipe (insulated it) and led it into the house.

5. Service Features:

   To start the centrifugal pump of the station for the first time, you must first fill it with water; with the design described above, this is difficult to do, and without this the pump will not work.
   Two options have been tested:
   1. Before installing the barrel, fill the pump with water according to the instructions for the pumping station (close the outlet from the pump, unscrew the technological plug, fill it with water through this hole and tighten the plug). Then we install the barrel, screw on the “American” one, put a main filter on the squeegee and fill in several buckets of water for testing.
   2. We install the barrel on an unfilled pump; we do not install a main filter. A check valve is built into the pump; without sufficient pressure from outside, it will not open. Therefore, we fill a couple of buckets of water, open the tap at the outlet of the pump and on top of the barrel, with a long stick about 10 mm in diameter and a meter long, squeeze the valve through the squeegee, wait until water comes out of the tap. We release the valve, turn off the water, and put on the main filter.
   For the winter, I remove the barrel and put an adapter to the storm sewer on the drain pipe. I drain the water from the pumping station and leave the station in a stand outside. In the spring, the bearing of the centrifugal pump turns sour. For the first start, you need to rotate the motor shaft by hand. I do it through the impeller of the engine cooling fan, removing the protective casing from the back of the engine. It works fine all summer, but the procedure has to be repeated this third spring.

Here is a very competent and meticulously thought out water supply system for a 2-storey country house.

The water supply system was developed for a two-story country house and consists of a polyethylene barrel with a volume of 160 liters in the attic, two water heating tanks with a volume of 50 and 80 liters. Consumers - kitchen and bathroom.

Water is pumped into the barrel from a well with a submersible pump and diluted with polypropylene pipes with a cross-section of 25 mm. The inlet from the well is laid into the basement under the foundation
houses at a depth of 1 m. A pipe leads from the basement to the barrel into the attic.
Since the system was designed so that it could be used both in summer and winter, switching water with taps turned out to be quite complex.

Photo 1 shows the main switching valves of the system located in the kitchen.

Purpose of check valve taps:

• valve K02 does not allow water to drain from the water heater if there is no water in the water supply;
• tap VN2 allows you to drain this water if necessary;

A KOZ check valve is installed in the bathroom, which prevents water from flowing back into the well. To drain water back into the well, a VN10 tap is installed parallel to the valve.

1. the VNZ tap is used to connect and disconnect the dishwasher;
2. tap VN5 8 in the open position connects the water supply system to an external water supply;
3. the VN7 tap disconnects part of the system from the bathroom and allows it to be used autonomously in winter;
4. tap VN6 provides the ability to drain water from the kitchen part of the system in winter;
5. tap BH4 allows you to drain water from the pipe supplying hot water to the kitchen faucet;
6. check valve K01 and tap BN1 provide air supply to the water heater when used in winter.

A K0Z check valve is installed in the bathroom, which prevents water from flowing back into the well. To drain water back into the well, a VN10 tap is installed parallel to the valve.

To connect the washing machine, a BH9 tap is installed with a transition to a 3/4" external thread (photo 2). During winter use, a garden fitting can be screwed onto it, allowing you to conveniently draw water.

The VN13 tap on a horizontal pipe (not visible in photo 2) serves to disconnect the water supply section - sink faucet, shower, toilet and water heater - from the vertical pipe leading to the barrel.

In front of the water heater in the bathroom, similar to K02 and VN2, a check valve K05 is installed, parallel to the valve is a valve VN14, which allows you to drain water from the water heater (photo3).

To drain water from the pipe supplying hot water from the water heater to the sink and shower faucets, a BH15 tap with a fitting is installed at the lowest point of the pipe under the sink (photo 4).

To drain water from the flexible tube supplying water to the toilet cistern, a similar valve VN16, also with a fitting, is installed. To drain water from the shower stall, a tee is cut into the lower point of its tube, to which a hose with a VN17 tap and fitting is connected.

A polyethylene barrel with a volume of 160 liters is installed in the attic as a water storage tank (photo 5). A half-inch piece of brass fitting is secured into its cover with two nuts. From the inside to this pipe with a standard adapter

a section of polypropylene pipe is connected, going to the bottom of the barrel. Its upper end is connected to a pipe supplied from the basement.

To automatically turn off the pump, a filling sensor from the washing machine is used. A plastic tube is attached to the sensor fitting, the length of which is selected so that when the tube is lowered into the water, the sensor switches when the water reaches a level 80-100 mm below the top edge of the barrel.

Among several sensor outputs, a normally closed pair was selected, connected in series with the pump switch. When blowing into the fitting, the steam opens. A hole with a diameter sufficient for a tight fit of the tube is drilled in the barrel lid. For reliability, the sensor is glued to the surface of the barrel with silicone sealant.

A simple indicator of a filled barrel can be assembled as follows: parallel to the sensor contacts, connect a series circuit of a resistor and an LED, for example L-1503 SRC-E, connected diagonally to a diode bridge, for example KD906A(B) or KTs407A. Power

a 100-220 kOhm resistor connected in series with the bridge must be at least 0.5 W. In photo 3, such an LED is installed in a box with 16 A automatic fuses used as switches.

Operation of the country water supply system in the warm season

Taps VN1 - VN6 are closed, VN7 (kitchen), VN8, VN12, VN13 are open. Taps VN9, VN10, VN11, VN14 under the water heater and VN15 - VN17 (drain under the sink, drain from the shower and from the toilet cistern) in the bathroom must be closed. To fill the system with water, turn on the pump in the well. Water through the VN12 tap in the bathroom, the KOZ check valve and the VN8 tap enters the barrel in the attic; in the kitchen, through the VN7 tap, bypassing the VN2 tap through the K02 check valve, it fills the water heater installed in the kitchen. To allow air to escape from the water heater, the faucet lever in the sink must be set to the hot water position. After filling the water heater, water will flow out of the mixer, and it must be closed. When the barrel is filled, the filling sensor installed in it will work and it will turn off the pump, after which you can turn the pump switch to the off position.

After filling the water heater in the kitchen, it is necessary to fill the water heater in the bathroom, for which open the valve BN13 (on a horizontal pipe in the bathroom; in summer it should be constantly open). Then set the bathroom sink faucet lever to the position where hot water is open (to allow air to escape from the water heater), and close it after filling. Turn on the water heater in the bathroom.

When the water in the barrel runs out, to fill it, just turn on the pump switch again. If you have a pump shutdown sensor, you can keep this switch constantly on, but it is better to empty the entire barrel from time to time.

Water supply diagram for a dacha (two-story house) - photo

Do it yourself plumbing! None of my neighbors in the country have running water. People wash dishes in a basin on the street the old-fashioned way. Everything would be fine, for the sake of romance and exoticism I allow such inconveniences. But in our area it’s not hot and at +5-8°C I don’t understand washing dishes outside, even with warm water and using modern detergents... Below I give a description of my design of a homemade water supply system, I hope to answer questions about how to make and how to make a water supply system yourself.

To ease labor in the late eighties decided to build a simple water supply system with his own hands. I installed a tank on the roof of the extension and made an outlet from the tank using a corrugated hose. I installed a sink in the kitchen at home. I secured the pipe with the tap. I connected a hose to the pipe from above. The drain from the sink was organized through a standard siphon with drainage into an old rubber hose.

Let me remind you that the plumbing was done in the late eighties, remember or believe it - nothing was sold in stores. The drain hose is made from a 5 meter high pressure rubber hose (from a fire truck pump) with an internal diameter of 40mm. The hose was led outside to the drainage point, maintaining a slope for independent drainage. My soil is sandy and I need to build an extensive water intake network not required. The wastewater collection well has varied in design over the years. The first options silted up after 7 years (the water begins to drain slowly). The second option still works.

The first version of the receiving well

A small pit was dug with a diameter of ~60cm and a depth of about 70cm. The inside of the ring well is lined with old bricks. The bricks were laid overlap without solution. The drain hose entered the masonry from the side. The masonry was covered on the outside with waterproofing (old polyethylene). From above to the ground level, a ceiling was made from scrap materials and covered with polyethylene. The entire structure was covered with earth to the general surface level. The disadvantage of the first well was its “hermetic” design. Water in sink siphon gurgled, allowing air to pass through as the water in the well is absorbed. The repeated version of the well was equipped with a tube (a piece of an old hose) connecting the well to the surface.

Second version of the receiving well

The second option was built already in this century from half a 200 liter metal barrels, buried with the lid up. The required piece of the barrel was cut out with a grinder. The drain hose is inserted through a hole cut with the same grinder right next to the lid. A pressure equalizing hose is routed through the same hole. By installing half a barrel, the issue of recycling the leaky container was resolved.

Filling the pressure tank with water

Well, now the most interesting part. The tank on the roof is small, about 50 liters. But this volume of water is almost enough for a day. The container must be refilled periodically. At first it was a portable hose connected to a hand pump and then to an electric one. Drawing water takes some time and, naturally, when attention is distracted you forget about water. More than once, Niagara Falls fell from the roof when the tank overflowed, flooding the garden, things that fell under the stream of water and tiring the neighbors with the noise of the water until the end of the series or news. The overflow problem was resolved within one season.

Automation scheme

It was necessary to build an automatic pump switch when the required level water in the tank. There was no talk about automatic water pumping. The pump purchased by appointment was protected. Its cost then, in terms of wages, today corresponds to the cost of a modern two-chamber refrigerator. The main purpose of the pump is to water the garden. The device was assembled in the field from what was available. Especially for photographing and restoring the circuit, I opened the box, which had been in use for more than 20 years. The design feature is due to an attempt to avoid the presence of electrodes in the water container, which are constantly under voltage and lead to corrosion of the electrodes themselves and the tank in my case. The diagram is shown in the photograph. There are only two controls. Switch B1. Allows you to turn the device on or off. Button Kn1 turns on the pump. The scheme works as follows. Turning on switch B1 gives permission to control the circuit, but does not supply 220V supply voltage.

Pressing the Kn1 button will supply power to the step-down transformer Tr1. The alternating voltage of the secondary winding of the transformer is supplied to bridge rectifier D1. The pulsations are smoothed out electrolytic capacitor C1. A constant voltage of 24V is supplied to relay K1 through a normally closed contact. The relay is activated and, through its contacts K1.1 and K1.2, supplies power to the pump, while simultaneously picking up the Kn1 button with contact K1.1. The level sensor switch is made on transistor V1. Relay K2 is included in the transistor emitter circuit. The level sensor is made in the form of a metal duralumin plate suspended in the tank at the required height, the second electrode is a metal tank. When the water level of the sensor is reached, a 24V voltage through the water resistance and resistance R1 opens transistor V1. Relay K2 is activated and breaks the normally closed contact K2.1 in the power circuit of relay K1. Relay K1, in turn, turns off the power to the pump. Contact K1.1 removes the pickup of button Kn1 and the device is completely de-energized. When the water runs out or to replenish the tank, just press the Kn1 button again. This version of the circuit allows you to control the pump using switch B1 and button Kn1 when operating in the “irrigation” mode, without disconnecting from the automation circuit. To allow the pump to operate when the tank is full, the filling pipe is placed slightly below the sensor level (0.5-1cm). After turning off the pump, the water flows in reverse through the vibration pump valve into the well until air enters the filling pipe. Reducing the water level allows you to turn on the pump for other purposes. As relay K2, a relay of type RES9 passport 200 is used, relay K2 is some kind of imported one with powerful contacts, something like domestic relays of the RN brand. Anyone who wants to replicate the device, but lacks experience, please contact us, we will develop a version on this page based on a modern element base.

Design

The device was assembled in a suitable housing from available parts. The circuit components are attached to the box lid using screws and glue, and the mounting connections are made mounted way. Initially, voltage was supplied only to the socket on the cover of the device, where the pump was connected. Subsequently, the controlled socket was placed directly into the well enclosure.

Operating experience

The next year after the installation of the water supply system, a corrugated hose for filling water was installed permanently. Low climate resistance reduced the service life of the hose to 3-4 years, after which it was replaced with a new one. The issue of durability was resolved by using a reinforced multilayer hose. Naturally, the water is drained from the system in the winter; it is useful to blow out the inlet hose to remove residual water. In the spring, the absence of ice plugs in the filling line will allow you to quickly start up the water supply system. The water in the sink siphon freezes in winter, but does not lead to any damage. The design of the water supply system is simple, at the primitive level, but at the same time functional and, as experience has shown, durable. By price similar solution the water supply is still competes with the purchase and installation of a pumping station when building a minimal water supply system and has a slight advantage; in the absence of electricity, the water supply system continues to operate until the water in the tank runs out. Several such machines were made to order in the 90s. There were no complaints. Some of them are still working.

Our topic today is organizing water supply in a country house. We will analyze several solutions for different water sources (wells, wells and country water supply) and compare several types of water heaters for hot water supply needs. So, let's go.

Country water supply

Given:

• A summer water supply runs through the site or along its border;
• Water for irrigation is supplied through it two to three times a week;
• We need to ensure a continuous and round-the-clock supply of water to the country house.

You can learn more about how to install a water supply at your dacha in the video in this article.

Scheme with gravity water supply

The obvious solution to the problem is storage capacity. If you install it under the ceiling of a residential floor or in the attic, the water will flow to the water collection points by gravity.

Plus: complete energy independence of such a water supply scheme.

Minuses:

• Pressure limited by the height of the tank above the point of water collection;

Help: for the operation of household appliances connected to the water supply, excess pressure is required. For example, an instantaneous water heater will simply refuse to turn on the heating elements if the water supply is less than 0.3 kgf/cm2 (which corresponds to a pressure of 3 meters).

• The need to insulate the attic or dump the tank during the cold season;
• Large load on the floor with a significant volume of capacity. If you need a water supply of 3-4 cubic meters, placing a tank of the appropriate size on a wooden floor is a very dubious idea.

Implementation:

• The water supply inlet from the country water supply is inserted into the storage tank as close as possible to its lid and is equipped with a filler float valve (the same as those installed in toilet tanks);
• The water pipe cuts into the bottom of the tank or into the side wall as close to the bottom as possible. The insert should be equipped with a tap or valve: then to repair the faucet in the house you will not have to dump all the water from the container;
• When water is supplied to the country water supply system, the tank is filled, after which the inlet is closed with a float valve. Water flows into the water supply system by gravity when any tap is opened.

Scheme with tank and pumping station

The lower insert, as a rule, has already been made by the manufacturer - a brass pipe under the drain valve is always installed above the bottom of the tank. The hole for the fill valve is drilled with any drill and expanded to the desired size with a sharp knife. Then a brass insert with a nut and rubber gaskets is screwed into it.

Water supply from a well or well

What does the organization of water supply to a private house from a well or well look like?

Scheme with a submersible pump and hydraulic accumulator

The water supply scheme includes:

It’s not hard to guess how this scheme works:

• When the pump is turned on, the pressure in the hydraulic accumulator and water supply increases until the pump is turned off automatically;
• As soon as the number of atmospheres in the water supply circuit reaches a predetermined value, the automation turns off the power to the pump, after which the check valve blocks the water from returning to the well;
• When drawing water, the pressure slowly drops until a lower threshold value is reached, at which the automation turns on the power to the well pump.

Scheme with a pumping station

The design of the pumping station is already familiar to us: a pump with a hydraulic accumulator and automation on a common frame. The check valve is moved to the suction pipe, and the outlet pipe of the station is connected directly to the water supply.

Everything is simple and clear.

It would seem that such a scheme is much more practical than water supply with a submersible pump. But that was not the case: the pumping station can lift water from a depth of no more than 8-9 meters.

Yes, because a pressure difference of one atmosphere (that is, the difference in pressure between the air at the surface of the planet and absolute vacuum) corresponds to a height of a water column of 10.3 meters. The water will not rise higher. Physics, you know. And the pressure in the suction pipe of a surface pump is far from vacuum.

The captain is obvious: circuits with pumps, hydraulic accumulators and storage tanks can be combined. For example, water can be supplied to a storage tank with gravity water supply from a well by a pumping station. This organization of water supply to a dacha is perfectly adapted to long-term power outages.

Water heating

Geyser

In the country, as a rule, non-volatile gas water heaters with a pilot burner and piezo ignition are used.

• Principle of operation: a bimetallic temperature sensor increases the gas supply when cooled with running water. As a result, the main burner lights up from the pilot burner. The degree of heating is controlled by the temperature of the water in the heat exchanger.
• Advantage: minimum cost of thermal energy (0.5-0.8 rubles per kilowatt-hour).
• Flaw: instability of water temperature. The mechanical thermostat is very late when changing the water pressure in the mixer. As a result, instead of taking a comfortable shower, you constantly fight with the faucet taps and leave the bathroom either frozen or scalded.

In addition: politely speaking, not all dacha cooperatives have mains gas. Bottled gas makes this solution much less economical, with operating costs approaching geyser to electric heaters.

Flow-through electric heater

An inexpensive water jet will allow you to wash dishes or take a shower in relative comfort during the warm season.

Operating principle: The heating elements turn on when water flows through the device and turn off when the taps are closed. Heating is controlled by a flow sensor and manual step-by-step power adjustment using switches on the device body. Fine adjustment of the temperature is carried out by changing the water pressure of the taps.

Advantage: extremely easy to connect the device yourself. You can screw a mixer shower hose to its inlet pipe and use its taps to adjust the pressure.

In addition: a flow-through water heater is more economical than a storage water heater, since it does not store a supply of hot water and does not dissipate heat through the walls of the housing.

Flaws:

• Large power consumption (for younger models - 3.5 - 5 kW). Not everywhere country wiring is capable of providing this;

• Linear relationship between inlet and outlet water temperatures. With a power of 3.5 kW, you can wash with relative comfort in the summer, but in winter, when the inlet water is colder, taking a shower is not so pleasant;
• Power-limited performance. Accordingly, special watering cans and spouts with small nozzles are used with flow jets, which also does not contribute to the comfort of the owner.

Boilers

The boiler is quite suitable for year-round hot water supply in any region (see).

Operating principle: water is heated by a relatively low-power (1-2 kW) heating element and stored in a thermally insulated tank. The operation of the heating element is controlled by a thermostat; in this case, the heating temperature can be set manually.

Advantages:

• Low power consumption, which makes the device compatible with weak country wiring;
• Stable outlet water temperature up to the consumption of most of the tank volume;
• No restrictions on water consumption per unit of time. Simply put, mixer taps can be opened to full pressure.

Disadvantage: less economical compared to a flow machine. Heat is continuously lost through the thermal insulation, and the heating element of the device has to compensate for the losses.

Conclusion

We hope that our material will help the reader in building his own country water supply system. Good luck!