Kitchen renovation with heated floor. Laying heated floors under tiles in the kitchen. What are the benefits of heated floors in the kitchen?

The kitchen is not only a room in which culinary dishes are prepared, but also a resting place for household members. In country houses, the kitchen can replace the living room. The room is spacious and beautifully designed.

“Warm floor” will come in handy in it. For underfloor heating, a system is selected depending on a cost-effective heat source, electric or liquid, which runs from a stove or gas boiler.

The kitchen in a city apartment is not large in size. It is impossible to install water heating, so they resort to electric heating elements. In this case, the choice depends on the floor covering.

It is recommended to lay cable sections, mats, and carbon rods under the tiles. The laminate floor is heated with thermal film. How to install a “warm floor” in the kitchen? What requirements must be met when drawing up a project?

Underfloor heating project

It is necessary to determine the size of the heated area. Draw up a schematic plan of the room. Mark on it the size of the kitchen set, refrigerator, other household stationary equipment and furniture. There is no “warm floor” installed underneath them.

• 30 cm away from the interior.
• From the walls that remain free, make a 15 cm indent.
• Apartments in the city are heated by radiators. Floor heating is installed at a distance of 15 cm from the appliances.
• The heated surface makes up 70% of the total active area of ​​the room.

When choosing electrical systems, the consumption rate for the kitchen area is taken into account. If underfloor heating is used as the main heating, then the power must be at least 150 W/m2. If the system is installed for additional floor heating, then the optimal power is 120 W/m2.

When using cable sections or a liquid line, it is necessary to determine the length of the circuit and the laying pitch.

• For liquid heating, a cross-linked polyethylene pipe is used, which is made using peroxides.
• Diameter 16 mm.
• If the laying step is 15 cm, then 6.7 m of pipe will be needed per 1 m2.
• At a coolant temperature of 30 0C, the floor temperature will be 18 0C. When the thermal temperature of the liquid is 33 0C, the floor will warm up to 22 0C.

The power of the cable section is calculated depending on the size of the active area. To heat 10 m2 you will need 1 kW of energy. Select the appropriate section. The length of the cable in it is determined by the manufacturer. Laying is carried out in increments of 10-15 cm.

Mats, carbon rods and thermal film are chosen with a power of 150 W/m2. It is recommended to make a pattern for laying the main line, film or mats. Markings are made on it on the base of the floor, which will facilitate installation work.

The main wiring in the house needs to be tested. Its power must correspond to the energy consumption of the “warm floor” and all household items that operate on electricity. Otherwise, when connecting underfloor heating, the network will not cope with the high load; there is a risk of an emergency.

If the kitchen area is 20 m2, then the heated surface can only be 10 m2. The heating system will require an average power of 1 kW. A pipeline with a diameter of 16 mm requires 67 m, a cable section about 71 m. The choice of mats and thermal film depends on the size of the heating elements.

Before installing a “warm floor” in the kitchen, it is necessary to prepare the surface. It should be insulated and protected from condensation that occurs when temperatures change.

The heating elements are placed on a foil backing. If the systems are mounted on a concrete base, then it is recommended to make the finishing surface from screed or tile adhesive.

For a wooden floor, lathing is done. When using thermal film under laminate, no screed is required. If you plan to lay linoleum on the floor, it is recommended to cover the system with plasterboard slabs. Tile is not suitable for thermal film.

Cabling

The heating section runs on electricity, so first of all you need to consider a place for the thermostat. This device controls the operation of underfloor heating. It has a built-in thermostat in the form of a metal plate, which is sensitive to temperature changes. It closes or disconnects the electrical network. Sensitivity can be 2-1 degrees or 0.5 degrees.

The thermostat is installed at a distance of at least 30 cm from the floor. If sections are laid in several circuits, it is recommended to provide a distribution box. The regulator is selected with the appropriate number of outputs for the local network.

The ends of the heating cable are placed in a corrugated tube and brought to the control device. For corrugations, a groove is provided on the wall and floor.

The temperature sensor measures the floor temperature. It is placed in a separate corrugation. For the sensor, choose a place between the turns of the cable. The distance from the border of the heated surface must be at least 30 cm.

It is recommended to route the cable away from the location where the thermostat is installed. The section is installed according to the markings, maintaining a step of 10-15 cm. In places of bending, a loop radius of 10 cm is observed. In order for the floor to warm up evenly in all areas, the section is removed with a double “snail” or double “snake”.

A single-core conductor is connected at both ends to the thermostat. A two-core cable is connected to the network at one end. The “warm floor” in the kitchen from the section is laid under the tiles.

Installation of mats

Cable mats are a mesh on which a conductor is fastened with a snake. Carbon rods are connected on both sides by wire. Mats are produced in rolls. They are rolled out on the floor surface.

If it is necessary to lay 2 tapes, then the mats are rotated, but the cable or rods are not cut. It is not recommended to damage the integrity of heating elements. Cut the mesh or wire that holds the rods or cable.

The cable on the mesh remains unchanged. An additional connection is used to connect to the thermostat. Carbon tapes must be connected to each other in a parallel circuit. To do this, use the UKC connection kit.

The conductor from the first mat is connected to the thermostat. Cover the mats with a 4-5 cm screed or tile adhesive. In this case, the floor is covered immediately.

Laying thermal film

Thermal film is produced in rolls. It is placed on a flat base. The film can only be cut along the dotted lines. The conductor is a copper plate and silver plating. The tapes are connected parallel to each other; use crab terminals. All joints are insulated with bitumen tape.

The temperature sensor and connecting cable from the tapes are placed in corrugated tubes and led along a groove to the thermostat. Before connecting, it is necessary to check the resistance of the materials. The indicator is indicated on the regulator panel, on the film and on the power outlet.

If the result is positive, the system is connected and tested. I cover the film with a backing. Its thickness should not exceed 3 mm. Next, the floor covering is formed.

Not so long ago, underfloor heating systems were a rarity in apartments and houses, but now this will not surprise anyone. They can be used as additional heating to conventional radiator batteries or as independent heating equipment. Recently, there has been a strong tendency to replace radiator heating sources with more economical modern heating systems.

Types of heated floors

A warm floor is a flat heated surface that can be used in residential, industrial, office, and service premises and even outdoors. In stores selling construction and finishing materials, you can find several varieties of such systems.

Warm floors heat the air in the room more evenly than traditional radiators located under windows. Heat rises from bottom to top, with the floor being the warmest element.

Warm floors heat the air in the room more evenly

Water floor

In water heated floor systems, the coolant is hot water, which can circulate inside the installation using pumps, and can also be supplied from central heating. The pipes through which the working fluid moves are laid over the entire surface of the floor in one or more contours on a layer of thermal insulation substrate, and covered on top with a wet or dry screed. The design of this thermostatic system is a kind of layer cake, with a thickness of 50 to 200 mm. The pipeline can be made of copper, metal-plastic, polypropylene or cross-linked polyethylene.

In water heated floors, the coolant is liquid

The advantages of heated floors with liquid coolant include the following qualities:

• Economical. Tangible savings in heat spent on heating (up to 50% for rooms with ceilings of more than 3 m).
• Environmental friendliness and safety. There is no electromagnetic field that has a negative impact on the inhabitants of the home.
• Very low energy costs (pump only).
• Due to the low temperature of the energy carrier (+25…+45 °C), it is possible to use any type of decorative floor coverings.
• The absence of bulky and unattractive radiators, pipes and open wiring, which allows for simplified interior decoration.

The negative qualities of water heating systems for floors are:

• Complexity, duration and high cost of installation work. Technology must be followed very strictly.
• Installation is prohibited in apartments, since the liquid reaches other residents almost cold, which upsets the overall balance.
• Restrictions on installation in houses with weak floors. A thick layer of screed greatly weighs down the structure and eats up the height of the ceilings.
• Inertia. The system takes quite a long time to heat up.
• The need to dismantle the screed to ensure free access to the pipeline in the event of a breakdown.

For the first time I saw heated floors from my friends. They made a water heating system, powering it from a heating gas boiler. But it turned out that it was impossible to walk barefoot on the tiled surface that was placed on top, as it was very hot. The temperature was difficult to regulate in this case and all household members had to constantly walk around in slippers, which was not entirely comfortable. After a couple of years, everything had to be dismantled and rebuilt again, as it was extremely uncomfortable.

Electric floor

There are several types of electrical underfloor heating systems.

Cable

A single-core or two-core cable made of a high-resistance alloy (nichrome, etc.) that effectively converts electrical energy in thermal, mounted in a cement screed up to 50 mm thick. To connect this electric floor, a 220 V network is sufficient, but the house wiring must withstand its power (80–150 W/m2).

The cable underfloor heating system is the very first

Advantages that distinguish a floor heating system using a cable:

• long service life (more than 50 years);
• possibility of temperature adjustment;
• uniformity and speed of heating;
• democratic and affordable price.

Weaknesses inherent in cable heated floors:

• the presence of electromagnetic radiation (especially in cheap models);
• a ban on installing furniture above heated areas;
• complexity of installation;
• high energy consumption.

A modification of the cable system is heating mats. A thin cable is attached to the self-adhesive mesh (in a zigzag pattern with a given pitch). Thermal mats usually do not exceed 3 mm in thickness; they are simply rolled out over the floor surface (possibly without a screed).

Film (infrared)

One of the most modern and effective is considered to be an infrared electric floor, which is a thin (0.3–0.4 mm) film with heating elements laminated in it, which are a special paste based on carbon or carbon, as well as thin layers of metals (copper , aluminum). When connected to the electrical network, the emitters generate infrared radiation, which heats various objects, for example, floor coverings.

Film heated floors are considered the most efficient and economical

Positive qualities of film heated floors:

• small thickness;
• Possibility of installation on any surface (horizontal, vertical, inclined);
• efficiency (high efficiency);
• ease of installation and no need to make a screed;
• high warm-up speed;
• if one section of the floor is damaged and fails, all others continue to function properly;
• noiselessness.

Negative characteristics:

• high price;
• impossibility of laying under tiled flooring (poor adhesion).

Infrared film can be placed under the tile if you put a fine-mesh fiberglass mesh and sheet material (chipboard, gypsum fiber board, etc.) underneath. But the heating efficiency is significantly reduced.

Rod

A relatively new and not yet very widespread system, which is essentially a type of infrared electric floor. The heating elements are flexible composite rods made from silver, carbon or graphite, and placed 0.1 m apart parallel to each other. They are connected to each other by a conductive bus and mounted in a polymer film. Rod heated floors are produced in the form of a rolled thermomat.

Rod heated floor is the latest development in this area

Advantages of the rod system:

• You can place furniture and other heavy objects on such a floor;
• if one rod fails, other sections work;
• good heat dissipation;
• the ability to fill with screed and various adhesives, which is necessary for laying tiles;
• durability.

• high price;
• high risk of buying a fake.

Video: types of heated floors

It is extremely important to choose the right flooring for your underfloor heating system. The material must last a long time, not deteriorate or deform under the influence of heat, and also not emit poisonous and toxic substances when heated. But the main requirement for a decorative finishing floor covering will be maximum thermal conductivity, so that all the heat generated is used to heat the room.

You can select various materials for underfloor heating:

• Tile and porcelain stoneware. Ceramic coating is recognized as the best for underfloor heating, especially for water-heated systems. When there is a temperature difference, the coefficient of expansion of the tile is small, but its stability is maximum. Low-density tile materials used in tiling work are not suitable for heated floors. It is better to choose cladding with a hardness level of at least class 5–6. You should not use tiles or porcelain tiles under an infrared film floor, however, there are models that allow you to use tiles.

  Tiles are considered the most suitable material for heated floors

• Laminate. Next most popular facing material for heated floors. There is a specially designed laminate flooring with increased thermal conductivity on sale; it has a special designation on the packaging. You cannot use a regular laminate with a porous structure and without a binder and moisture-repellent impregnation that is resistant to thermal cycles of heating and cooling. Over time, the slats will inevitably crack. Laminate flooring should be placed on a water floor with care, choosing a product of at least class 32 and up to 7 mm thick. In this case, heating should not exceed +30 °C. Most often, a film heated floor is chosen under a laminated coating.

  Infrared film heated floors are most often chosen for laminate flooring.

• Linoleum. Not all types of linoleum are suitable for heated floors. When heated, toxic substances can be released, and the surface of the coating can be deformed due to the difference in thermal expansion of the layers. However, you can find thin material suitable for this purpose and labeled accordingly.

  Not all types of linoleum are suitable for heated floors

Cork has high thermal insulation characteristics, so there is often no point in using additional heating, and it also takes a long time to warm up. Prolonged use of such a warm floor and heating above +28 °C will lead to overdrying and destruction of the cork.

Warm floors are rarely installed under a cork.

A very good option, since the thermal conductivity of self-leveling floors is comparable to tiles. But systems with liquid coolant are not economically profitable to use due to the large layer of poured floor.

Warm floors are ideal for decorative self-leveling flooring

• Parquet, board. The least suitable facing material for heated floors, as it has low thermal conductivity and a high coefficient of moisture and temperature expansion. It is allowed to use hard and resistant species (oak, teak, ash, acacia, etc.). Natural wood must be well dried (humidity no higher than 8%), it should not be heated above +27 °C. The board should have a thickness of 15–16 mm, otherwise it simply will not heat up. Only infrared film is used.

Video: choosing a covering for a heated floor

Installation of heated floors under tiles

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to draw up a project and draw a plan, which takes into account the placement of furniture and plumbing fixtures, as well as select the location of the thermostat.

The further sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Preparing the base. The old floor covering is dismantled. If necessary, if there are unevennesses, make a rough screed (3–7 cm). Mount a temperature sensor in the floor and a thermostat on the wall (height 0.9–1 m).

   The base under the heated floor must be carefully leveled

2. Thermal insulation. The entire concrete surface including the walls (5–10 cm) is covered with extruded polystyrene foam or polyethylene foam with a foil coating. To compensate for thermal expansion, damper tape is glued around the perimeter of the walls.

   A thermal insulation layer is laid on the prepared base

3. Laying heated floors. First, check the resistance and power for compliance with the passport data using a multimeter. The heating cable is laid in a snake pattern, maintaining the same distance between turns (10 cm) and 15–20 cm away from the walls. For fixation, use a special mounting tape with fasteners. Heating mats are simply spread over the surface of the base, the strips are fastened together with tape. The system is then connected to the thermostat and tested again.

   The heating cable is laid in a snake

4. Laying tiles. First, a screed 3–5 cm thick is poured. After 2–3 days, when the solution has completely hardened, the tiles are laid on a special adhesive composition intended for heated floors and marked with the temperature range. On thermomats, the tile covering is laid immediately on tile adhesive without screed.

   There is no need to make a screed under the tiles; it is immediately laid on tile adhesive

You can turn on the electric floor only after 30–35 days, otherwise cracks may form on the coating under the influence of high temperatures.

Video: installing heated floors

The choice of underfloor heating systems, as well as decorative flooring for them, should be approached with all responsibility. It is equally important to install heating equipment correctly, strictly following the work technology.

It is in the kitchen that you spend most of your free time from work and study. This is the room where a person has meals; the kitchen is also a place where you can have frank conversations, have tea parties, and celebrate holidays.

The kitchen plays the role of a home. Several centuries ago, people cared about its preservation, because it was in this place that the most important decisions were made. All housewives dream of their kitchen being the best, most comfortable and stylish. The first step towards making your dream come true is installing heated floors.

In the kitchen, the housewife performs various tasks, prepares delicious food, washes dishes, does canning, and even does laundry. Doing such a volume of work is not the most pleasant thing, and if the floor is still cold under your feet, it turns into torture. Its temperature causes it to become damp during cleaning, which results in the formation of mold. will eliminate these problems, it will make your stay in the kitchen comfortable.

Warm floor in the kitchen with electric mats

They are made from several materials - tiles, linoleum, less often. But all these options will not heat the room, and fungus may soon appear on them. To avoid such problems, supplement the floor design with an electric heating mat. maintains optimal room temperature, and is also durable and reliable. A cold kitchen certainly cannot be called cozy. A warm floor in the kitchen will help create a comfortable microclimate.

Nowadays, heated floors are no longer new, this will not surprise anyone. Many housewives have already installed them and were satisfied with the choice. This floor is safe, and its reliability has already been tested by time. It is impossible to imagine a modern apartment without heated floors. The underfloor heating system with an electric mat consists of a heating cable, which is fixed to a special mesh and rolled into rolls. The electric mat does not need to be filled with a thick screed. Thanks to technology, the electric mat is covered with a thin layer (1-2 cm) of tile adhesive when or with a thin layer (1-2-3 cm) when laying linoleum.

A warm floor in the kitchen is practical; it will also complement the heating system operating in the house, and sometimes even replace it completely. Most homes in Northern Europe have electrically heated floors, which have been in use for over a decade.

Heated floor thermostats

Warm floors have several advantages, and the most important thing is that you can adjust the temperature level in the room at any time; for this purpose, special thermostats are installed, which are very easy to use. Setting up the controls is easy and doesn't take too much time. Note that thermostats can operate in manual or automatic modes. You can independently adjust the settings and adapt the heated kitchen floor to the required temperature.

We do not campaign and certainly do not advertise heated kitchen floors. We are only talking about its advantages and the comfort it creates. A warm kitchen floor is more of a necessity than an exotic thing and should be in every home. There are more and more houses and apartments that are equipped not only in the kitchen.

Today modern technologies provide an opportunity to constantly improve living conditions for the better.

Warm floors in the kitchen have long been very popular. It creates the necessary coziness and comfort in the room. What else do you need for a place where all family members gather every day?

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages

Heated flooring is a special room heating system. If necessary, can take on the responsibilities of heating the entire space, replacing the central heating.

It has the following advantages:

• Efficiency . Heating occurs over the entire floor area;
• Safety . Multilayer insulation for electrical option;
• Economical. When necessary, the temperature can be lowered or turned off altogether;
• Special microclimate, allows you to reduce the level of dust and humidity;
• Autonomy. The radiator heating system allows you not to depend on central heating.

Flaws

Like any system, material or product, heated floors in the kitchen have a number of disadvantages that you need to be aware of. For example, for the water heating method there is no possibility of independent temperature control. For the electrical system – additional electricity costs.

Choosing coverage

When choosing the material under which a heated floor will be installed in the kitchen, you need to take into account the features of the space where it will be used. The floor covering must have a number of properties. Strength, fire resistance, durability, moisture resistance, ease of maintenance and non-slip.

Usually they stop at the following materials:

• Tiled;
• Cork;
• Liquid.

Tile

Ceramics are rightfully in high demand among experienced craftsmen, as well as ordinary people. Its resistance to cleaning agents, ultraviolet radiation and mechanical stress is worthy of respect. The tiles are not afraid of moisture, moreover, it is an environmentally friendly material, and the choice of sizes and colors will pleasantly surprise you.

The main disadvantage of tile is its sliding surface, its hardness, which leaves no chance for falling dishes. Without underfloor heating, the tiles will always be cold.
Laying ceramic products will require a level base, meticulous work and professional advice. Tiles of the third level of strength with low porosity are best suited.

Self-leveling coating

Self-leveling flooring is the main competitor of ceramics. It is functional, environmentally friendly, not afraid of moisture, temperature changes, and is also elastic enough so that the dishes remain intact if dropped. Its smooth surface will last about 40 years. The choice of material is quite large.

The main disadvantage is the high cost of future coverage. Do-it-yourself installation is quite difficult.

Cork

This material is derived from the bark of the cork tree. It will give the space a feeling of comfort, retain heat and have a positive effect on health. Its coating does not have allergens, is very environmentally friendly, fireproof, moisture resistant, has soundproofing properties, and does not absorb odors.

The cost of the product may unpleasantly surprise you - this is the main drawback. It is better not to do the installation yourself; entrust it to professionals. If the tightness of the seams is broken, leaking moisture can damage the integrity of the coating.

Choosing a color

How to insulate a kitchen floor while choosing the right material? The choice of products depends on many factors. From the intended design, the intended interior, the size of the space, the presence of children, old people in the house.

Here are some tips:

1. Ceramics are suitable for contrasting designs in black and white style;
2. Tiles laid in a checkerboard pattern will look more luxurious;
3. Cork is the best way to hide imperfections;
4. The use of light colors will visually increase the space - dark shades will reduce it;
5. For a large room, combined colors or patterns are suitable.

To heat a room, two types of devices are used: electric and water. They differ in the method of driving force, using water or electricity. The effectiveness of underfloor heating lies in the physical ability of warm air to rise from bottom to top. In addition, heated floors are pleasant to the touch.

Preparing the foundation

Regardless of the type of heating, we carry out the necessary work to level the surface. A screed made from a mixture of cement and sand will do this perfectly. Sometimes sand is replaced with screenings, giving the base additional strength.

The resulting solution is contracted by the rule. When pouring in a private home, you will need a pillow. Sprinkle crushed stone, expanded clay or gravel on the ground. We place beacons 100-150 mm less than the length of the rule.

After 3 weeks, after the screed has completely dried, we begin laying pipes and cables.

Installing electric heating

Every electric heating system needs a thermostat. Therefore, we make a place in the floor for it, install it flush with the plane, with thin elements down. The connection is made in parallel. Don't forget to calculate the wiring power.

We mount a metal strip for attaching the cable using a bracket with grooves every 2.5 cm. We fasten the tapes at an interval of 0.5 m.

We place the sensor under the film in a corrugated tube and install a plug. This will allow you to remove it if necessary or if it breaks. We isolate the terminals.

We mount the regulator between the cables and fix it. Only a mixture of sand and cement is suitable for pouring, since sharp pebbles from screenings can damage the insulation.

Penoplex will help as thermal insulation for the space located above the basement. A metal mesh with 2-3 cm cells is useful for installing the cable. It is simply mounted to the grid.

When heated, the glue layer cracks. To avoid this, make the minimum thickness of the screed 3-4 cm above the cable or pipe. The best option is 7-10 cm above the surface. This will allow the base to be heated evenly over the entire area.

After the screed has dried, we conduct a test run of the entire system. After a few days, the concrete base will stabilize and complete heat transfer will occur. Depending on the climate, the average temperature will be 30-40 C.

We install water heating

To install a water floor, similar to the electrical system, we use a screed. We take a metal-plastic pipe without seams with a diameter of 1.6 cm, it is cheaper and stronger than polyethylene.

We strengthen the screed with penoplex, and put a metal mesh on top to secure the pipe. Without reinforcement, we simply lay waterproofing in the form of a film, on which there is polyethylene foam with a 2 mm foil effect layer for heat transfer. Then we mark the path for laying the pipe, onto which we screw the brackets at a distance of 30-40 cm, shortening it at the bends.

We put a 20-30 cm steel spring with a diameter of 2-3 mm on the metal-plastic to avoid creases. If necessary, heating circuits are directed from the boiler to other rooms. The electrical package box is mounted in the wall near the floor. The temperature of the circuits is individually controlled manually.

A low temperature circuit with a condensing boiler is best suited for underfloor heating in the kitchen.

The screed is poured onto the finished pipe after laying the beacons. The required layer, thickness and distance are set by analogy with electric heating.

Video instructions - water heated floor

Do-it-yourself warm floors in the kitchen are a labor-intensive process. If you have a goal, then you will achieve it! The main thing is to choose the material for the flooring, the type of heating and be patient. As a result, any of the listed options will help you save your costs and give warmth to your home.

Part 1. Expanded clay subfloor

Part 2. Pipe installation

Part 3. How to make a screed

When installing heated floors in the kitchen, the microclimate changes dramatically for the better. There is a desire to gather the whole family together and organize a pleasant tea party. An innovative heating system will allow you to turn work area to a room to relax and meet with friends.

How to make a heated floor in the kitchen, and whether it really solves the heating problem - these questions worry the owners of houses and apartments who have decided to opt for this heat source.

Advantages of heated floors

Controversy over the installation of underfloor heating systems has not stopped since they were invented.

The advantages that are obvious:

• It becomes possible to take off your slippers and warm socks and walk barefoot on the tiles or laminate flooring in the kitchen area, which is very comfortable. This is especially true in the kitchen.
• Cold air layers are removed. After all, as you know, warm air from standard radiators goes up, the floors and the surface above them remain cold. By heating the floor this problem is solved.
• In the kitchen area there is often a need to ventilate the room, which leads to a rapid cooling of the temperature in this area. Warm floors will help quickly compensate for heat loss.
• It is very convenient to install a heating system on the floor surface on balconies and loggias, where laying paths and carpets is not advisable.
• A person feels more comfortable when his feet are warm and his head area is at a lower temperature. Underfloor heating technologies make it possible to achieve this.

What can be said against this system? Many argue that it is expensive, others say that heat-saving double-glazed windows on modern windows and radiators are sufficient to save heat.

To decide which heated floor to choose for the kitchen, they take into account the conditions in the room, whether it is a private house or an apartment, individual or central heating, the heat-saving characteristics of the building and many other parameters.

Types of heated floors

Various types of heated floors have been developed. The most common are water and electric. Water ones are connected to the main heating circuit, which operates in the room. That is, there is no need to install a source of thermal energy separately. If we talk about savings during operation, then this is the best option.

The water system also has disadvantages:

• They can only be installed in private households. You can’t do this in an apartment; the law doesn’t allow it. When connected to a central system, the heating level of the coolant is automatically reduced, since the power of heating boilers is designed for a certain volume, which was laid down during the construction of an apartment building. That is, it will become colder in your neighbors’ apartments. It is not possible to obtain permission to connect. Violation of the law entails heavy fines and dismantling of the system.
• Since high pressure is created in the pipes, there is a risk of leaks. And this entails expensive repairs, not only of the water circuit itself, but also of the entire floor covering. If the water circuit on the second floor breaks down, the ceiling below will also suffer. That is, the risk of repair costs exceeds the savings in operating costs.

With the electric heating method, heating cables are installed under the finished floor, in a concrete screed. Its thickness is from 3 to 5 cm.

Among the disadvantages of cable floors are long-term installation, expensive operation, that is, increased energy consumption. Installing a thermostatic unit partially solves this problem.

The undoubted advantages are high heat transfer (efficiency is close to 100 percent), the ability to install both in an apartment and in a house.

What are electric floors?

Heating elements for electric floors come in different types:

• film;
• rod;
• cable

Heating methods can be convection or using infrared rays.

Film ones are very easy to install; they are hidden under the final coating. No concrete screed is needed. This significantly reduces the time required for installation. This insulation system is installed under parquet, linoleum or laminate.

Film floors can be of different designs:

• Bimetallic, two-layer: aluminum and alloys based on copper.
• Carbon film heated floors. They contain copper, carbon and lavsan elements. The film is produced in rolls that can be cut to a suitable area.

• Infrared type of floors. Their peculiarity is that they do not heat the air, but the surrounding objects, which, in turn, give off heat to the room. This is a very energy-efficient heat source.
• Rod ones, which consist of carbon heating elements. They are mounted in a thin cement screed or under a tile adhesive. Such a system can be laid under tiles, porcelain tiles, carpet or laminate.
• Cable - come in the form of sections or bays. Consist of single-core or double-core cables.

What you need to install electric floors in the kitchen

When installing warm electric floors, the following layers are installed:

• thermal insulation;
• rough concrete screed;
• heat-reflecting foil;
• reinforcing mesh (if necessary);
• electric heating cables themselves;
• mounting tape;
• cement-sand screed up to 50 mm;
• finishing.

In addition to all this, a temperature control unit is installed: a sensor and a thermostat.

How to make electric floors in the kitchen area

Installation of electric heated floors in the kitchen begins with calculating the surface area that needs to be heated. They make a drawing of the kitchen and mark the places where furniture and large household appliances will be installed. If objects have high legs, they are not taken into account. The usable area is taken as the difference between the total area and closed overall furniture.

The length of the heating system is calculated by multiplying the calculated area by the specific power of the heated floor.

This indicator has the following standard values:

• no more than 120 watts per square meter if heated floors are installed as an auxiliary heating source in a house or apartment;
• no more than 150 watts per square meter when the warm floor acts as the main heating source.

Be sure to prepare the surface: dismantle the old floor coverings and level the rough.

Electrical cable installation steps:

• Prepare a place for the thermostat. Use a hammer drill to make a hole in the wall for the thermostat. From it downwards they make a groove for cables - electrical power, for the sensor. A corrugated pipe is placed in it so that the blind end of the corrugation ends approximately 6 cm from the wall. The groove is sealed with gypsum mixture.
• After the rough surface has been carefully leveled, a reflective foil heat insulator should be laid on it, the foil should be at the top. The joints are glued with tape.
• In order to fix the heating sections, you need to attach the mounting tape to the heat insulator using dowels.
• The cable should be laid evenly, avoiding sharp bends and breaks.
• The floors are then poured with concrete. Layer thickness from 30 to 50 mm.

As the concrete screed dries, it is moistened from time to time to make it stronger. After the concrete has completely hardened, the floor surface is finished.

How to make water contours on the kitchen floor

Despite the fact that water floors are much more difficult to make, if you have construction skills, you can lay it yourself.

To install a heated floor in the kitchen with your own hands you will need:

• A water heater with enough power to heat the water in the circuit. They leave a small power reserve of 15-20 percent.
• When floors are installed over a large area, more than 120-130 square meters, an additional circulation pump will be required.
• Shut-off valves at the entrance and exit of the water floor circuits, which will be needed during repair and maintenance work of the system.
• It is necessary to install a collector - a block that distributes the coolant among the circuits and adjusts the heating level. Control valves will allow you to adjust the coolant flow in each circuit. As a result, the heating system will warm up more evenly.

Heating water circuit pipes

Warm floors are equipped with the following types of pipes:

• reinforced polypropylene;
• metal-plastic;
• made of cross-linked polyethylene.

On a note. Whatever material is used for the pipes, they must be marked “for heating”. Pipes have special operating requirements: temperatures up to 95 degrees and a pressure of at least 10 bar. They are 16-20 mm in diameter.

Various installation options:

1. With concrete works. The pipes are laid on the prepared surface and filled with concrete. This is a labor-intensive process, difficult to install and heavy in terms of the total weight of the system.
2. Option with flooring. The water circuit pipes are laid on a special flooring. For this, wooden blocks and plastic modules are used. The disadvantage is the increase in floor heating time.

How to lay heated floors

Stages of laying heated floors when the contours are covered with a concrete screed:

• Determine the location for installing the collector. It is hidden in a box that is mounted on the wall. The collector is placed in such a place that the distance of the pipes to each heated room is the same. If possible, you can place it closer to the most massive heating circuits. Among the main conditions for installing the collector is its elevation above the floor surface in order to prevent air pockets.
• Next, a heat-insulating layer is laid and the damper tape is secured in a circle. The insulation is placed so that the joints are covered. In case of mistakes, when the slabs could not be cut correctly and there are cracks, they are sealed with polyurethane foam. The foam that has not had time to harden will act as a good glue for the insulation layers.

• Install reinforcing mesh. When mats act as heat insulators, reinforcing mesh is not needed.
• Lay out the water circuit of the floor. There are different methods: in the form of a spiral, a loop, a snake. Maintain distances: from the pipe to the nearest wall at least 8 cm, between pipes from 10 cm to 40 cm. The pipes are attached to the reinforcing mesh using plastic clamps. It is necessary to ensure that the diameter of the pipes does not decrease at the fastening points, otherwise the contour will deform when heated. The fastening clamps are placed at a distance of one meter. Pipe turns are performed observing the minimum permissible radius.
• The laid pipes are connected to the collector. In this case, a Eurocone system or compression fittings are used. The beginning of the water floor is connected to the supply pipe of the manifold, the end pipe is connected to the return pipe. A corrugation is placed on the part of the pipe where the seam is located.
• Check the circuit. Water is supplied into it, maintaining a pressure of 6 bar. Leave for at least a day. Then inspect for leaks and deformation.

Only after making sure that the contour is made successfully can you begin to pour the concrete screed on top. In this case, water cannot be drained from the circuit; it must remain under operating pressure.

The screed takes at least four weeks to dry. Only after this period can finishing floors be made.

It is more advisable to trust calculations and drawing up diagrams to specialists who have experience in installing heated water floors in the kitchen. Reviews about the masters are available on Internet resources. Specialists must correctly calculate the length of the water circuit, power characteristics, and the distance between pipes. It is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the room and the parameters of the heating equipment. If you calculate all this yourself, inaccuracies may appear, which will ultimately make the system ineffective and energy-consuming. It is also important to select high-quality elements of the system, because repairs will then be very expensive.

Before installing heated floors, you must make sure that the base is perfectly level. We allow a difference of no more than 0.5 cm.

The thickness of the insulation depends on the subfloor, climate zone, and number of floors. When you need to lay a heat insulator thicker than 50 mm, experts recommend purchasing not one slab, but two thin ones. It is better to use a thick thermal insulator to insulate a wall, since it does not bend. Two thin slabs have a greater bending margin before cracks appear than one thick slab. This ability allows the insulation to compensate for possible unevenness of the base.

Installation of a heated floor system should be done slowly, without reducing the curing time of the concrete.

For gluing and grouting, special solutions are selected that are suitable for underfloor heating systems.

Before gluing the damper tape, you need to make sure that the wall is level. Otherwise, you may end up with air pockets. The places where the tape adjoins are leveled with a solution using a spatula or trowel.